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 ADVANCED
Sunnyside Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 
Cold September Corner T 
Gotham City T 
Hot August Night T 
Magellanic Cloud T 
Mercedes T 
Meteor T 
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 
Mister Masters T 
Pit Bull T 
Shady Ladies T 
Spring Break T 
Tarantula T 
Tie me Tightly T 
Van Allen Belt T 
Water Dog T 
Whiplash T 
Whipper T 

Van Allen Belt 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, 1980s
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Billy running it out on Van Allen Belt.

Description 

This is a decent route, but a somewhat tricky lead for the grade, with some loose rock.

Start in the very smooth, varnished dihedral about 40 feet left of the Shady Ladies corner, and 20 feet left of Magellanic Cloud. The initial moves are a little tricky, and there is no protection for about 20 feet or so, hence the serious rating. It's not really too bad. Later on, there potential for your rope to get stuck in a crack and cause SERIOUS drag, so watch for that. The last moves are on some crumbly rock with less-than-ideal protection. End at the communal belay ledge.

Protection 

Standard trad rack


Photos of Van Allen Belt Slideshow Add Photo
Billy looking solid for the exit of Van Allen Belt.
Billy looking solid for the exit of Van Allen Belt...
Tony Doyle cleans up the Van Allen Belt.
Tony Doyle cleans up the Van Allen Belt.

Comments on Van Allen Belt Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sandro
From: Calgary, AB
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a great route with wild exposure for its grade
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Apr 8, 2007

the drag is not that bad if you extend your placements properly. i would not give this an R rating. i'm still a young buck to trad, but i laced this thing up tight.
By Aaron S
Apr 24, 2007

I mean, it's no Cold September Corner, but the pro is pretty thin up top.
By TedV
From: Lost Wages
Nov 9, 2008

You should use a double rope system with this route so as to totally eliminate rope drag. The traverse is easy, but if you did slip it would hurt. Still gets an R because of that. Fun climb, but kind of convoluted
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The start for the climb is unprotected for about 20 feet and then the end was pretty spotty as well. The runout ending was quite juggy, so not bad.
By Franzalopolis
From: Mass.
Mar 5, 2013

Runout to start, but nice ledge once done. Lookout for rope drag cause the climb meanders left and right under a roof. Then you hit the awesome exposure. Sun and wind hits you all at once when you are about 60-70 feet up. Can be a bit runout near the end.
By Ben Townsend
Nov 18, 2013

I got a good Tricam in a pocket just before the climbing got serious. After that, I don't recall any issues with the protection at all. Pretty easy for the grade. The pitch is just over 100', but a one-rope rappel works fine.