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Vampires 

Vampires 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: N. Shitake
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2012
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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

Start up on a couple of large edges, taking care not to fall (because you'll land on a Barrel Cactus). The climb is fairly straightforward on edges until up near the bulge, when you might be momentarily perplexed because the edges disappear. Find a couple of pockets and soldier on through (avoid the looser rock to the right).

Head up into the bulge; the higher you get the better the holds. Naked limestone gives way to chert knobs and edges.


Location 

Left-most of 3 bolted lines which are all located to the left of a rounded, vertical trough with a curving, overhanging feature part way up the trough. There is a light-colored, oblong area about twenty feet up in the middle of the three routes.

The first bolt is directly above a medium-sized Barrel Cactus.


Protection 

13 bolts, single-ring anchors.



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