Valore 5.8-
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Karl and Heidi Wilcox (1999) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | karl g wilcox on Apr 28, 2006 |
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Description "Valore" is just to the right of the start of Birdland. Begin in the grotto below the Birdland and Bighorn starting point.
Pitch one climbs out of the grotto, traverses somewhat right on a ledge and then moves up the right-hand side of the face (adequate protection available) some 30 feet to a protection bolt. From the first bolt, continue up to a second bolt another 30 feet up and then bear slightly left to a short crack that ends the pitch at a good-sized ledge and solid belay/rap bolts. This pitch, although only 5.7, requires some care in placing pro. It's also hard to see the bolts from the ground.
Pitch two climbs the obvious and rather steep crack system directly above the belay. This pitch protects well. The crux is a technical bulge which rates at easy 5.8. Pitch two ends at a bolted belay/rap station just to the right of an off-width crack and just above a large ledge. Rappel the route using two ropes.
Location If you follow the marked trail that heads up to Birdland you will end up beneath the large boulder and in the grotto where Valore begins. Valore's second pitch really is worth doing.
Protection Standard Rack up to 3 inches including a full range of small-to-medium-sized stoppers. Also take at least two 0.5 TCUs or cams. Smaller Aliens may also be useful.
By Greg Barnes
Apr 8, 2008
rating: 5.8 R
| First pitch is like a bunch of dinner plates glued to the wall, with poor pro (mostly between plates that were suspect). Runout. Not recommended even for very experienced Red Rocks locals. The bolts were off the logical line of the route, and easy to miss. This route may well see an accident if moderate trad leaders start doing it when Birdland is crowded (Handren has a description).
However, the second pitch is pretty cool, neat position, good moves, and steep. Still quite hollow and loose though. If I were to do this route again, I'd climb the first pitch of Birdland, then traverse right 30' from the Birdland anchor (a 5th class ledge) to the (hidden) Valore anchor, then climb the second pitch.
We broke off around 20 holds on the way down just to keep the rope from getting stuck. If more people kick off the junk, this could turn into a fun route. |
By PDF
Feb 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a R
| Accidentally did this route, we where looking for a 10d near bye and got on the wrong route. OOPS
This is a death trap with tons of loose rock.
I am VERY solid at the grade and was not enjoying myself. The biggest crux is figuring out which holds can handle body weight and which holds can not(most of them).
Gear is tricky.
SUB NOTE:
the second pitch has potential if time was taken to clean the route. I felt it was harder than 5.8, but I was being very careful not to pull on anything that would take out my belayer. |
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