|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Karl and Heidi Wilcox (1999)|
|Submitted By:||karl g wilcox on Apr 28, 2006|
|Comments on Valore||Add Comment|
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By Greg Barnes
Apr 8, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
First pitch is like a bunch of dinner plates glued to the wall, with poor pro (mostly between plates that were suspect). Runout. Not recommended even for very experienced Red Rocks locals. The bolts were off the logical line of the route, and easy to miss. This route may well see an accident if moderate trad leaders start doing it when Birdland is crowded (Handren has a description).
However, the second pitch is pretty cool, neat position, good moves, and steep. Still quite hollow and loose though. If I were to do this route again, I'd climb the first pitch of Birdland, then traverse right 30' from the Birdland anchor (a 5th class ledge) to the (hidden) Valore anchor, then climb the second pitch.
We broke off around 20 holds on the way down just to keep the rope from getting stuck. If more people kick off the junk, this could turn into a fun route.
Feb 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Accidentally did this route, we where looking for a 10d near bye and got on the wrong route. OOPS
This is a death trap with tons of loose rock.
I am VERY solid at the grade and was not enjoying myself. The biggest crux is figuring out which holds can handle body weight and which holds can not(most of them).
Gear is tricky.
the second pitch has potential if time was taken to clean the route. I felt it was harder than 5.8, but I was being very careful not to pull on anything that would take out my belayer.