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The Burnier-Potard guidebook calls Vallorcine "perhaps the best granite crag in the whole region." Not having climbed throughout the region, I won't make such sweeping claims, but it is a fantastic crag!
We took the train from Chamonix. From the town of Vallorcine, you can see the crag, so just head in that direction. Cross the train tracks and make a right on the road. Pass some homes and continue into a field. A trail sign will direct you to turn left to reach the crag--follow it! Total approach from Vallorcine: 10 or 15 minutes.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vallorcine:
Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 5 pitches, 330'
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Five slab-tastic pitches of fun, with a nice dihedral thrown in on pitch four for good measure. The right side of the crag was crawling with other parties when we arrived, but no one was on this climb on the left side. We thought it was a score.P1: Follow the easy slab past frequent bolts to snake left above the first overhang and right below the next. French rating: 4cP2: More vertical climbing and fewer bolts this pitch a little more interesting. French rating: 4b, but felt harder.P3: Crux pit...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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