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Valley of the Moon

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Valley of the Moon  


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Location: 32.631, -116.0788 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,456
Administrators: Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 16, 2007
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Description 

A miniature version of Joshua Tree right at the border between San Diego and Imperial Counties. Also on the border of Mexico! Higher elevation keeps this area slightly cooler than close-by desert areas. A mix of sport and trad routes with an emphasis on sport. See Dave Kennedy's guide for more detailed information.

Getting There 

Requires 4WD vehicle. 8 east, exit In-Ko-Pah Park Rd. Two qick rights gets you going West on the 80 for about 100 yards where you enter the dirt road on the south side of the road. Head leftish on this to end up heading south east. The road number is 155. Through some hills for 2+ miles and park at a turn - around. Do not drive into the areas posted as wilderness. Continue hiking down the road for ~1/2 hour to formations reminiscent of Joshua Tree.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.9 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',13],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valley of the Moon:
Look No Hands   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Sundagger Wall
Crackerman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Sundagger Wall
Tec-9   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Patina Wall
Dog Leg Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 55'   Tombstone
French Curve   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Sundagger Wall
Borderline   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   Patina Wall
Full Auto   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Patina Wall
Shortest Straw   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Headbanger Wall
Browse More Classics in Valley of the Moon

Featured Route For Valley of the Moon
Borderline

Borderline 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : San Diego County : ... : Patina Wall
The first route to be put up on the Patina Wall. Just right of Tec-9. The top is entertaining with finger-lockoffs in small cracks. Goes through mostly dark brown patina towards the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Valley of the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Survery Marker
Survery Marker
I based this map off of the guidebook, google eart...
BETA PHOTO: I based this map off of the guidebook, google eart...
Some of the great bouldering scattered throughout ...
Some of the great bouldering scattered throughout ...
one of the great sport routes at VOM
one of the great sport routes at VOM
Evening light, Valley of the Moon
Evening light, Valley of the Moon
Uncannily Josh-like piles at VotM
Uncannily Josh-like piles at VotM
Unsent crack at VOM
Unsent crack at VOM
awesome boulder problem on the way to the patina w...
awesome boulder problem on the way to the patina w...
It goes from face to hands to wide to fingers.
It goes from face to hands to wide to fingers.
Keli on Distant Warning (5.10d), Valley of the Moo...
Keli on Distant Warning (5.10d), Valley of the Moo...
Formation on which the Headbanger Wall resides.
Formation on which the Headbanger Wall resides.
Mike Hack getting ready for the traverse on 'Bro's...
Mike Hack getting ready for the traverse on 'Bro's...
This is a really fun boulder problem right on the ...
BETA PHOTO: This is a really fun boulder problem right on the ...
Lots of rock, Valley of the Moon
Lots of rock, Valley of the Moon
Keli high on Paradigm Shift (5.11b), Valley of the...
Keli high on Paradigm Shift (5.11b), Valley of the...
Eric enjoying some fun face climbing at Valley of ...
Eric enjoying some fun face climbing at Valley of ...
Matt @ VOM - the poor man's Jtree
Matt @ VOM - the poor man's Jtree
Sunset among the formations
Sunset among the formations
Valley of the Moon
Valley of the Moon
Here's another view of the same roadside Boulder i...
BETA PHOTO: Here's another view of the same roadside Boulder i...

Comments on Valley of the Moon Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 27, 2015
By Tyler Bowser
From: Red River
Aug 25, 2007
My wife and I went on a scouting trip to VOM Aug 24th. We didnt take gear because we thought it would be too hot. It actually was quite nice and climbable in the shade and in the evening.

There must have been a recent fire that had burned 99% of the foliage around all the best climbing including the patina. Too bad, what a beautiful remote place this is.

Tyler and April
By GregR
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 14, 2011
Awesome place, with some nice routes, hopefully someone has a good topo with the names of the routes, because I have no idea what routes I am climbing. I do know where tech-9 is but and I would rate it a 5.8.. I lead the route that is two over to the left from tech-9 the crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Does anyone know this routes name and what it is rated at?
By jack howard
Mar 27, 2011
full auto 10d. tec 9 is 10a
By GregR
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 6, 2011
Really tech-9 5.10a? No way! its at most a 5.9...

Should be going out there again, found a couple long routes on headbanger wall, looks like fun. Does anybody know the names of these routes, I saw at least 3 maybe 4.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Aug 22, 2011
Just got back from a couple days in VOM...super rad! Amazing how similar it is to Josh, but in the middle of nowhere. Talked to a couple Border Patrol agents who said that VOM is one of the most popular spots for crossings and human trafficking.
By Nate KSD
Apr 11, 2015
Took my first trip out to valley of the moon yesterday and I think it was definitely worth the 1 hour drive out of town.

A note on the offroading required to get to the rock: There are three things that you are required to have in order to get out because if you don't have these then your car is going to get stuck out there. This is why the "Getting there" description tells you to hike the rest of the way there because the road sucks ass and it has harvested people's vehicles before.

1. Your vehicle needs enough clearance that you can crawl under it and still have inches to spare.
2. You need A/T or M/T tires with decent tread.
3. 4 wheel drive (slightly optional)

The most challenging part of the trail is actually on the downward part of the trail as you go towards the VOM. Gravity will allow you to surpass this part very easily going in, but if you don't have the items above you will very very likely get stuck on the way out, because you will be going uphill on the way out and the ruts are so deep and the rocks jutting out are very large. You can get out with a RWD, but if your tires start slipping at the crux then you'll have to back up and gun it which is very risky.

For less capable vehicles there is some worn out asphalt that goes pretty close to the top of the ridge, take it as far as you can and park at the last turn out that you find.

The climbing area itself is a sea of very cool stuff to climb, however alot of the rock is very weathered and will turn into sand if you put your foot on it. Alot of stuff out there isn't clean for climbing and for good reason - there is broken glass almost everywhere, spent ammo casings, and even bullets can be found in some spots. This place is very popular with recreational shooters. There are also loose choya cactus needles almost everywhere, so be wary of where you step or sit. There are lots of cool little nooks and crannies that show evidence of animal use.

Place is awesome, will totally come back.
By Coon
Apr 13, 2015
Agree with above. You need at least 12 inches of clearance, knobby AT tires and 4WD. This is not an SUV or truck road... it's a modified jeep trail for wheelin. Even with the above there are plenty of places where you will need a spotter to get by.

There are some great routes but a lot of chossy routes too. It probably doesn't get climbed too often so a ton of holds were still crumbling in my hands and granite was flaking off. I felt some climbs went way easier than the grades and others way harder. The rock is still finding it's harmony with climbers so things are bound to break and change.

I first went 3 years ago, then again yesterday. Not much has changed. So much potential for great climbing out there it's not even funny. If this were more accessible i'm sure there'd be 100's of routes up.

Does anyone know how to get to the TR anchors on the cave across from Gravity Wall?
By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 24, 2015
While the road is indeed rough, I think the comments above are a bit exaggerated. A stock 4WD Tacoma, 4Runner, Jeep Wrangler, etc. that has 10" or more of clearance is totally adequate with a little off-road driving skill. I don't consider myself any sort of advanced off-roader, and my relatively stock 2001 Tacoma (it has a custom leaf pack to bring the rear back to stock height with my pop-top camper loaded in the bed) with 31" A/T tires makes the trip in and out regularly without issue.

Here's my truck at the mine at the end of the road a few years ago...
4WD Taco
4WD Taco


Last time I was there, two late model stock 4WD 4Runners, a Jeep Liberty, a couple of old-school 4Runners, and a slightly lifted Tundra made it in and out with no issues.

Now, don't get me wrong - if you're totally inexperienced at off-roading, you could damage your vehicle or possibly just soil your shorts on this road. If you're uncertain of your abilities, stop at a pullout near the high-point of the road and walk down to the "gauntlet" to check it out and make a go/no-go decision before committing. Getting in is easier than getting out.

One last note... the road does seem to be just slowly getting worse and worse each year. Valley of the Moon is a great place. Get out there and enjoy it.
By Coon
Apr 27, 2015
^^ Props on taking a popup in and even more props on a stock Liberty making it in. You do mean all the way to Gravity Wall right? We had to park it at the big slab ~3/4 mile before Gravity Wall not thinking we'd clear it (with 33's). The gauntlet seemed simple in comparison to that part. I'm having a hard time picturing a Liberty making it through there but it must have just looked more tricky than it actually was. Without a back up car, we didn't want to risk it.
By tom donnelly
May 26, 2015
Coon, it sounds like where you stopped is the end of the road.
Past that is Wilderness and a sometime Jeep path which is completely illegal, but the rock crawlers and ATVs keep ripping down any Wilderness signs and posts.
By Coon
Jun 27, 2015
Ahh makes sense then. The dirt road obviously keeps going, but that area gets hairy so I would have been shocked if something stock made it. Glad you pointed it out.
By coryc
Jul 27, 2015
Anyone know what the climb is that is on the pillar between Sundagger and Patina wall?(Up on the left when in approach gully) Fun route, would be great with a little cleaning. Couldn't make the drive with our car but ended up hiking in when the road got too bad. Not bad, makes for a little adventurous day
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