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Valley Massif
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Select Route:
Been Hair Done That 
Bill Steal 
Bittersweet 
Hair of the Dog 
Hammer 
Hooker 
Internal Combustion 
Ladder 
Monkey Wrench 
Nail 
Powder Puff 
Quits 
Screw 
Slut, The 
Soft Touch 
Sunny Day 
Tail Spin 
Tea Grinder 
Tool Or Die 
Zipper 

Valley Massif 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: William Prehm on Nov 30, 1999

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Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Chance of a Thunderstorm
66° | 45°
Clear
68° | 46°
Partly Cloudy
72° | 46°
Mostly Cloudy
70° | 45°
Partly Cloudy
68° | 46°

BETA PHOTO: Taken from uphill to the northwest, September, 200...

Description 

Valley Massif has a collection of good multi-pitch traditional crack climbs. The guidebook for this area declares Valley Massif as one of the loveliest areas in Vedauwoo. I have to agree. This area is made up primarily of two faces--the Northwest face and the Southeast face. The Northwest face stays shaded most of the day and the opposite is true for the Southeast face. The Southeast face has some nesting birds of prey so check for closures. The walk off for most of the routes is to the Northeast.


Getting There 

To get to this area follow the Turtle Rock trail that starts in the parking area near the base of Walt's Wall. The trailhead is on the left side of the parking area when facing Walt's. Follow this trail around until you see the Valley Massif rock outcroppings across the valley. You will have to cross some beaver dams to get there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valley Massif:
Powder Puff   5.4     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Sunny Day   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Soft Touch   5.5     Trad   
Bill Steal   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   
Screw   5.7     Trad   
Nail   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Tea Grinder   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 225 feet   
Zipper   5.8+     Trad, 3 pitches   
Hammer   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Quits   5.9+     Trad   
Monkey Wrench   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Hair of the Dog   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet   
Tool Or Die   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Hooker   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Valley Massif

Featured Route For Valley Massif
Happy to make it through the fat start of Zipper.

Zipper 5.8+  WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif
Zipper starts about 40ft. right of Screw. Midway up the climb, you will a group of 3 parallel cracks. You can use this feature to help you find the start.P1 - go up pretty easy ground(20ft)and then enter the off-width. In my opinion, entering the off-width is the crux. Grunt your way up to a ledge (another 20ft) and belay.P2 - there are 3 variations to P2, each given a its own name in Harper's guidebook. Zipper follows the right-most crack (more off-width). The Snap variation which we took go...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of Valley Massif Slideshow Add Photo
Valley Massif.

Valley Massif.

Southeast face of Valley Massif.

Southeast face of Valley Massif.

Hiking in on a beautiful fall day, with no one else around.  We had the whole valley to ourselves this day...and the rock.

Hiking in on a beautiful fall day, with no one els...

We for the life of us couldn't believe there was no one else climbing that day.

We for the life of us couldn't believe there was n...

Aspens seen on the way to Valley Massif.

Aspens seen on the way to Valley Massif.

Enjoying a brew after Zipper.

Enjoying a brew after Zipper.


Comments on Valley Massif Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Sep 24, 2001

Just a note on approaches for those using Heel & Toe. Things have changed a little bit in the Valley Massif area (and the Reynolds area, for that matter)since the publication of H & T, probably for the better if you go to Vedauwoo seeking solitude.

Viable approaches include: (1) as described above, take the Turtle Rock trail from the parking lot below Walt's Wall and past Holy Saturday; (2) take the Turtle Rock Trail from the east trailhead near the beaver ponds, around the Turtle Rock massif, and across any convenient beaver dam; (3) hike in from the Reynolds Road closure point (old #700D); and last but not least (4) take a good trail that drops down to Valley Massif from the SE corner of Poland Hill. The latter option probably involves the least "swamp-whacking", but is uphill all the way out.

Right now is a great time to hit Valley Massif if you're in the area. As of 9/23, the approach was bug-free and mostly dry, the aspens had turned, and there was nobody around except for the elk.

By Brian Weinstein
Jun 5, 2004

a hidden gem. this rock provides a mystical experience that gives vedauwoo its character and charm.

By shad O'Neel
Jul 14, 2004

nice easy and free walk from the Poland hill parking area.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2007

Approach we used: Take the Turtle rock trail past the beaver ponds. Continue on the excellent trail passing a few ponds and swampy areas. Meet up with a well defined trail going left (marked with a cairn)This will skirt a pond. Follow this to the base of Valley Massif. Pretty much dry the whole way. To approach the actual climbs it is easist to go in from the far left of the formation, finding your way through the inevitable Veduawoo boulders. It is also possible to get to the climbs from the right but you will have to do some canyoneering type moves through a very narrow slot. This is fun as well, and is also required to get back to the base if you top out on routes and walk off.