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Valley Giants
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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Aug 1, 2011
Just a teaser

After some wide climbing this weekend I started thinking about cams that are larger than a #6 bd and all I could think of are the Valley Giants. Sooooo my question is, would the #9 be like a tipped out #6 camalot?


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By Kangaru Rat
From Under a Rock
Aug 1, 2011

Bigger.


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By Mia KCarver
From Butte, MT
Aug 1, 2011

Big bros are cheaper, lighter and easier to come by (used).

Valley Giants are bloody rad if you want to walk the gear and are good if you're on delicate sandstone. Also, placing Big Bros 4 and 5 can be a pain.

Pick your poison. Either way, you're going in the right direction.


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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Aug 1, 2011
Just a teaser

Kangaru Rat wrote:
Bigger.

Dang, Is there any other cams out there that are slightly larger than a #6?


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By Rich Farnham
Aug 1, 2011

The Valley Giant #9 is comfortably mid-range when the #6 (C4) is getting tipped out to the point of being scary. I tried to measure the usable range of the two to give it some hard numbers. I'd call the max range on a #6 C4 to be ~6.5". Putting the Valley Giant in a similar position, I measure closer to ~8.5".

More practically speaking I've really enjoyed having the #9 as I learn to climb that size. I have the bigbros for that range, but I often find them difficult to place in the coarse granite and Front Range sandstone around here. That size is hard enough (knees/quads don't really lock anymore, but I can't really get inside the crack yet) that I don't want to screw around with bigbros. Desert sandstone would likely be different.

The VG's are expensive. I split one with my OW partner. Seems most of our other partners don't want to climb anything that size anyway, so it doesn't really matter who keeps the thing, we pretty much only use it when we're climbing together. That helps with the $160 price tag.

Have fun!


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 3, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

the 9" VG is pretty similar in size/range as the green (#3) big bro. this cam is pretty nice, as that size can be a real mfkr. too big to stack, too tight to wing. nothing left but strenuous arm barring. anybody who has seen my arms realizes that the word "strenuous" can't be in the same sentence.


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By mattm
From TX
Aug 3, 2011
Grande Grotto

If you're getting into that size, NOTHING right now beats the #9 VG. Yeah it's expensive BUT it's TRUCK and nothing makes you feel "better" than sliding that sucker along with you.


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By Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Aug 3, 2011
Leading the 3rd pitch of West Side Story.

+1 for the VG9.
Tom Kasper does a very nice job on these cams. They are probably worth the price tag.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Aug 3, 2011
Thumbtastic

They sound like the shit. So where do you get these expensive torture device aids?

(That sentence is for Broadway. You're welcome)

Seriously, what's the story on how to pick up the Giants?


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Aug 3, 2011
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Send Tom an email.

He makes them in batches. Lead time can vary from a couple weeks to a month...

www.valleygiant.com/VGcontact.html

- Luke


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By rob.calm
From Loveland, Colorado
Aug 3, 2011
Mother #1 on the Nautilus at Vedauwoo. Rob is calm on this happy offwidth

Valley Giants also make great dumbbells when training for those hard climbs.


Valley Giant Workout
Valley Giant Workout


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By Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Aug 11, 2011
Third pillar of dana descent.

Did pratts crack a few winters ago, my partner had bought a few vg's...

They're badass!!!

www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=526501&tn=0&m>>>


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By Andy Matthews
Sep 29, 2011

I would LOVE to get my hands on a few of those!


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Sep 29, 2011
tanuki

FWIW, Wired Bliss is coming out with three new sizes of cam : #4, #5 and #9. I don't know exactly how big the #9 is going to be, but I think it will be bigger than the BD #6. They have a few pics on their Facebook site.


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By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2011
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

NC Rock Climber wrote:
I think it will be bigger than the BD #6.

It looks like it's a bit more than an inch bigger than the BD #6 and about the same size as the Valley Giant #9.


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Nov 24, 2012
blah

talked with Micheal at Wired bliss a few weeks ago and have one of his fives. its a sweet cam and his 9 is going to fill the gap between tipped out 6 and overcammed VG 9


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Nov 26, 2012

Valley Giants
Valley Giants


A size comparison of the Valley Giants to the Black Diamond #6 for your visual reference.

The #9 comes in handy from time to time, but I've found the #12 is rarely needed as it's about the size of a squeeze chimney where you can get inside the crack and become the pro.


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 12, 2012
Andrew Gram

Every now and the you find odd cracks for the 12" that you can't just get in. My route on this thing would be a horror without the big VG.

The route follows the obvious crack systems.
The route follows the obvious crack systems.


The 12" part is flaring, overhanging, and the rock quality isn't great. Pretty sure the sender put up a roof crack of that size somewhere around escalante. Its definitely a trick piece though.


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