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Aug 1, 2011
Starting up the steep 7b crux of Süpervitamin.
After some wide climbing this weekend I started thinking about cams that are larger than a #6 bd and all I could think of are the Valley Giants. Sooooo my question is, would the #9 be like a tipped out #6 camalot? Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,256 points
Aug 1, 2011
Bigger. Kangaru Rat
From Under a Rock
Joined May 14, 2008
3 points
Aug 1, 2011
Big bros are cheaper, lighter and easier to come by (used).

Valley Giants are bloody rad if you want to walk the gear and are good if you're on delicate sandstone. Also, placing Big Bros 4 and 5 can be a pain.

Pick your poison. Either way, you're going in the right direction.
Mia KCarver
From Butte, MT
Joined Jul 24, 2011
3 points
Aug 1, 2011
Starting up the steep 7b crux of Süpervitamin.
Kangaru Rat wrote:
Bigger.

Dang, Is there any other cams out there that are slightly larger than a #6?
Monty
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,256 points
Aug 1, 2011
The Valley Giant #9 is comfortably mid-range when the #6 (C4) is getting tipped out to the point of being scary. I tried to measure the usable range of the two to give it some hard numbers. I'd call the max range on a #6 C4 to be ~6.5". Putting the Valley Giant in a similar position, I measure closer to ~8.5".

More practically speaking I've really enjoyed having the #9 as I learn to climb that size. I have the bigbros for that range, but I often find them difficult to place in the coarse granite and Front Range sandstone around here. That size is hard enough (knees/quads don't really lock anymore, but I can't really get inside the crack yet) that I don't want to screw around with bigbros. Desert sandstone would likely be different.

The VG's are expensive. I split one with my OW partner. Seems most of our other partners don't want to climb anything that size anyway, so it doesn't really matter who keeps the thing, we pretty much only use it when we're climbing together. That helps with the $160 price tag.

Have fun!
Rich Farnham
Joined Aug 21, 2002
279 points
Administrator
Aug 3, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
the 9" VG is pretty similar in size/range as the green (#3) big bro. this cam is pretty nice, as that size can be a real mfkr. too big to stack, too tight to wing. nothing left but strenuous arm barring. anybody who has seen my arms realizes that the word "strenuous" can't be in the same sentence. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points
Aug 3, 2011
Grande Grotto
If you're getting into that size, NOTHING right now beats the #9 VG. Yeah it's expensive BUT it's TRUCK and nothing makes you feel "better" than sliding that sucker along with you. mattm
From TX
Joined Jun 2, 2006
1,238 points
Aug 3, 2011
Dusk at the Rim Lounge, San Rafael Swell.
+1 for the VG9.
Tom Kasper does a very nice job on these cams. They are probably worth the price tag.
Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Joined Mar 30, 2005
2,890 points
Aug 3, 2011
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
Send Tom an email.

He makes them in batches. Lead time can vary from a couple weeks to a month...

valleygiant.com/VGcontact.html

- Luke
Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 26, 2006
2,412 points
Aug 3, 2011
Mother #1 on the Nautilus at Vedauwoo. Rob is calm...
Valley Giants also make great dumbbells when training for those hard climbs.


Valley Giant Workout
Valley Giant Workout
rob.calm
From Loveland, Colorado
Joined May 2, 2002
606 points
Aug 11, 2011
Did pratts crack a few winters ago, my partner had bought a few vg's...

They're badass!!!

supertopo.com/climbing/thread....
Rob Fielding
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined May 8, 2011
240 points
Sep 29, 2011
I would LOVE to get my hands on a few of those! Andy Matthews
Joined Sep 23, 2011
3 points
Sep 29, 2011
tanuki
FWIW, Wired Bliss is coming out with three new sizes of cam : #4, #5 and #9. I don't know exactly how big the #9 is going to be, but I think it will be bigger than the BD #6. They have a few pics on their Facebook site. NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Oct 1, 2011
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
NC Rock Climber wrote:
I think it will be bigger than the BD #6.

It looks like it's a bit more than an inch bigger than the BD #6 and about the same size as the Valley Giant #9.
brenta
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
72 points
Nov 24, 2012
blah
talked with Micheal at Wired bliss a few weeks ago and have one of his fives. its a sweet cam and his 9 is going to fill the gap between tipped out 6 and overcammed VG 9 Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
46 points
Administrator
Nov 26, 2012
Valley Giants
Valley Giants


A size comparison of the Valley Giants to the Black Diamond #6 for your visual reference.

The #9 comes in handy from time to time, but I've found the #12 is rarely needed as it's about the size of a squeeze chimney where you can get inside the crack and become the pro.
Salamanizer
From Vacaville Ca.
Joined Sep 1, 2005
2,609 points
Administrator
Dec 12, 2012
Andrew Gram
Every now and the you find odd cracks for the 12" that you can't just get in. My route on this thing would be a horror without the big VG.

The route follows the obvious crack systems.
The route follows the obvious crack systems.


The 12" part is flaring, overhanging, and the rock quality isn't great. Pretty sure the sender put up a roof crack of that size somewhere around escalante. Its definitely a trick piece though.
Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,579 points


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