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Vallee Daze 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 2,577
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Jul 1, 2008
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Tim starts up the arete.

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Description 

This climb is wonderful. It is very aesthetic line, has extremely safe falls that still provide fear and it'll make for some frameable pictures. Make sure you bring your bag of tricks as you will encounter crimps, deadpoints, heelhooks, sidepulls, barndoors, pinches, fingerlocks, and a kneebar if you are observant. Balance, a couple of interesting rests and footwork will be rewarded.

Start out on easy ground, make the first clip and then get ready for the next 50 feet of business. Grab an undercling, make the move out onto the right face using crimps and make your first desperate move to the first jug of the climb at 25 feet. Make a big move up to another jug and set up for the crux, a series of crimps leading to the redpoint crux, clipping the 5th bolt off the flat ledge. Use your rest finding skills to find a left knee bar on the ledge and regroup before the final 5.10 layback moves up to the anchor.

This remarkable line is a must do for climbers 5'10" and over.


Location 

Striking black arete is the center of the wall to the right of Black Dog Crack and Salley's Alley.


Protection 

7 bolts of Anchors



Photos of Vallee Daze Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd resting before getting to the crux.
Ladd resting before getting to the crux.
Kevin down low on Vallee Daze
Kevin down low on Vallee Daze
Comments on Vallee Daze Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

nice description ladd it makes me want to run out and climb it today!

so i know its rated 5.11d in the guide and i heard it was stiff so is 5.12a the current consensus or just your vote? im fully aware that it doesnt matter, just wondering...

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 3, 2008

It is harder than Social Outcast, Peanut Man, and both 12s at Jimmy Cliff.

It is definitely 12a.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 4, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

cool.. well im psyched to get on it some time...

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 6, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Given the position and the moves, I like to think that this is the Chain Reaction of Rumney.

By Emile Mennin
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 6, 2009

Great Route, the day I sent it I was belayed by the man who put it on the map! And yes, I agree with the 12a rating. It is harder then Peanut Man, even though I sent Vallee Daze before I sent Peanut Man.

By Dustin Einig
May 20, 2009

Definitely, I did this today right after Weevil Knevil and felt this was the harder of the two lines.

By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
May 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I have to say, I definitely found this a little heady. Falling around the corner seemed like it might be harsh for your rope

By S. Neoh
May 6, 2012

I got on this today on TR. Very nice route. Knowing Tom, I am not at all surprised he graded it .11d. On TR, it felt .11d/.12a to me. I am nowhere nearly as tall as 5'10" and only found two longish moves. My partner at 5'0 (but with exquisite footwork) did not so much had to pop for a hold. And, yeah, she sent. Impressive.