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Vallecito Crags

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Dark Side, The 
High Times Wall 
Penthouse 
South Park Slabs 
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Vallecito Crags  


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Elevation: 9,500'
Page Views: 27,181
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jaaron Mankins on Oct 7, 2008
Forecast:
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Clear
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23° C | 4° C
Clear
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18° C | 4° C
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60° | 31°
16° C | -1° C
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17° C | -1° C
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Alex on some awesome steep face climbing on Vertic...

Description 

A nice little area with alpine feel. Some quality quartzite routes from one pitch sport climbs to three pitch trad climbs. Sometimes it is nice to climb on something besides sandstone. This is a fairly secluded area, and seeing other climbers is not commonplace. Some of the climbing here is quite adventurous, and this would be a bad place to need a rescue. On the longer routes, be prepared for difficult route finding, run outs and gear behind loose features as the quartzite can be quite flaky. There is still a lot of potential here, but the main lines have been cleaned up and climbed. Shady in the morning, and super sunny all day.

Getting There 

Drive up Middle Mountain road a little ways past the 5 mile marker and park at switchback. Trail to start hiking down is a four wheeler trail and is marked as the Berry Park Trail. Drop right off of the Berry Park Trail almost immediately. Hike down ridgeline about 10-15 minutes to the topmost crag (Penthouse). Downhill hike on the way in, and uphill on the way out.

These cliffs are easily visible from below near the Vallecito Creek Trailhead. To reach the larger cliffs of the High Times Wall and South Park, countinue on the trail past the Penthouse to the south which takes you to the top anchors of the multi-pitch climbs.

Map: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,....

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.1 miles from here

24 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',7],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vallecito Crags:
South Park The Movie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   South Park Slabs
Dr. Greenthumb   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 400'   High Times Wall
Oh My God, They Drilled Kenny!   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   South Park Slabs
Stabbin' the Cat   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Penthouse
Da Kine Line   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 325'   High Times Wall
Shallow Hal   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Penthouse
Pocket Rocket   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Penthouse
Centerfold   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Penthouse
High Times   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   High Times Wall
The Green Mile   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   High Times Wall
Browse More Classics in Vallecito Crags

Featured Route For Vallecito Crags
Alex on the upper face below the roof. <br />Clear Cut (5.10).

Clear Cut (AKA Nair Wolf) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Durango : ... : Vertical Wall
Climb the orange face, making a long reach to the crack. Follow this through the upper orange face to below the roof. Climb the crack through the roof moving left and up to the top. There are chains on a block of rock up over the top...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Vallecito Crags Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Wright at Vallicito.
Dan Wright at Vallicito.
Past the crux. <br />The Yardstik (5.11+).
Past the crux. The Yardstik (5.11+).
Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.
Self medicating at the top of the High Times wall.
Trundle Wall profile.
Trundle Wall profile.
-Courtesy of National Geographic Maps- <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.natgeomaps.com/ti_140_zoomify.html?zoomifyImagePath=assets/files/zoomify/ti00000140/ti00000140_3_img&zoomifyNavigatorVisible=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >natgeomaps.com/ti_140_zoomify....</a>
BETA PHOTO: -Courtesy of National Geographic Maps- natgeomaps...
High Times Wall.
High Times Wall.
Hey, want this too?  Base of Dr. Greenthumb-Dave Henritze.
Hey, want this too? Base of Dr. Greenthumb-Dave H...
Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penthouse is the top most cliff band and the multi-pitch slabs are on the right side. The Trundle Wall is hidden from view in the gully.
BETA PHOTO: Overview picture of the Vallecito crags. The penth...
Main single pitch crags.  Penthouse is primarily sport, Trundle Wall is mixed.  Walk under Penthouse and follow cairns to all indicated walls.
BETA PHOTO: Main single pitch crags. Penthouse is primarily s...
The superb stone of the Penthouse.
The superb stone of the Penthouse.
Based on approach descriptions, I've found these to be the locations of the crags. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
BETA PHOTO: Based on approach descriptions, I've found these t...
Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends at the tree above his head at the skyline.
Nick starting up South Park. The second pitch ends...
Vallecito Crags.
Vallecito Crags.

Comments on Vallecito Crags Add Comment
Show which comments
By bmo
From: durango, co
Dec 13, 2011
The directions could use a little more description, you branch off the Berry Park Trail almost immediately, we missed it due to lots of leaves on the ground and wandered around in the woods for a while.
By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Apr 18, 2012
Google map link directly to the talus field below the wall: maps.google.com/?ll=37.479373,....

I'm heading up there this weekend for my first time and will report back with photos/ driving directions/ approach instructions.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
May 7, 2012
Jump off of the Berry ATV trail after about 150 feet onto a footpath on the right. It's a nice trail down the ridgeline. Somebody put nice cairns all the way to the vertical wall. It helps funnel traffic on a trail and keeps people from getting lost. Thanks.

This area is great.
By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Oct 9, 2012
Fort Lewis College Climbing Club put cairns in last spring. If you park at the right switchback, you shouldn't be able to miss the approach. Enjoy!

High Times cairn.
High Times cairn.


The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.
The trail begins here and almost immediately cuts right following the ridge line.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Jun 17, 2014
It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus.