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Valle de Los Cóndores
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Valle de Los Cóndores 


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Elevation: 6,000'
Lat, Long: -35.967, -70.5636 Map
Page Views: 940. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: TYeary, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: cjdrover on Mar 4, 2012

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Sun, stone, and water. The crags on the other side...

Description 

Rock
Valle de Los Condores is a basalt climbing area outside the city of Talca, Chile. The area is single pitch up to about 25 meters. Information on routes is difficult to find - the area was apparently featured in the magazine Vertical but I haven´t found it yet. Number of climbs is unknown but my best guess is 100+, with at least 40-50 on the near side of the river, with both sport and traditional. Bolts are all high quality, but you might want to bring some extra quick links as some of the anchors were lacking lowering rap hardware.

Climate
Situated at an altitude of about 1800 meters in the arid mountains that divide Chile and Argentina, this area can provide dry rock when rain plagues the climbing area further south. Winter can have snow.

Scene and Camping
In my experience, close to deserted. I visited in late February and we had the entire place to ourselves. Camp where you please, but try to use established sites and be respectful of the desert environment - carry everything that you bring in out! Clean water is abundant in the Rio Maule.

No routes are listed here yet, but just go and enjoy. Grades seem to run 5.8-5.12. Try what looks good and bring a few extra bail biners...

Lastly, you can find some information here (Spanish):
www.escalando.cl/condores1.htm


Getting There 

First, get to Talca, Chile. This is a major city with many bus routes in and out. From Talca, take a bus from the terminal towards La Mina and ask to be let off at the last stop, which is at km 107 on Chilean Ruta-115. The climbing area is at km 133, so either hitchhike or start walking. There is a gravel/mining operation at km 132 - some, but not all, of the employees may be willing to give you a ride. Be aware that this route sees little other traffic, so be prepared to walk out or wait.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valle de Los Cóndores:
Casi un Chiste   5.4     Trad, 30 feet   Gran Pared
Calicornercation   5.5     Trad, 30 feet   Zona Escuela
A lo Gringo   5.7     Trad, 40 feet   Gran Pared
Chimenea de Santa Clause   5.8     Sport, 60 feet   Gran Pared
Ardilla Voladora    5.10a     Sport, 50 feet   Pared Talca
Alcatraz P.1   5.10c     Trad, 80 feet   La Carcel
El Poto aka "The Butt Crack"   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Gran Pared
El Fisudero   5.11b     Trad, 40 feet   Pared Talca
Calisutra   5.11d     Sport, 35 feet   Gran Pared
Alcatraz P.2   5.14+     Sport, 60 feet   La Carcel
Browse More Classics in Valle de Los Cóndores

Featured Route For Valle de Los Cóndores
La Carcel

Alcatraz P.1 5.10c  International : South America : ... : La Carcel


Photos of Valle de Los Cóndores Slideshow Add Photo
The main wall on the near side of the river.

The main wall on the near side of the river.

Climber "Moreno" in 31 Metros de Chocolate (31 Meters of Chocolate)

Climber "Moreno" in 31 Metros de Chocolate (31 Met...

Climber "Nano" in "La Paila" 5.11a

Climber "Nano" in "La Paila" 5.11a

Viejo Continente Zone

Viejo Continente Zone

Escuela Zone

Escuela Zone

Volatil Zone, North Wall.

Volatil Zone, North Wall.

Volatil Zone, South Wall.

Volatil Zone, South Wall.

Bajo Presión Zone

Bajo Presión Zone

Las Bandurrias Zone.

Las Bandurrias Zone.

Los 40 Especialistas Zone

Los 40 Especialistas Zone

La Cocina Zone, South Wall.

La Cocina Zone, South Wall.

La Cocina Zone, North Wall.

La Cocina Zone, North Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, First Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, First Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, Second Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, Second Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, Third Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, Third Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, Fourth Wall.

Los Huasamacos del Sur Zone, Fourth Wall.

mapa

mapa


Comments on Valle de Los Cóndores Add Comment
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By Roberto Herrera
From: Talca, Chile
Jan 14, 2013

Recently, there has been a "roc trip" kind of event organized by the Talca's Association of Andinism (ASAT by de spanish words), in wich there has been bolted more than 150 new routes, adding to the nearly 70 old ones. This means that Valle de los Cóndores is now the most important zone in Chile for sport climbing.

The new additions include a "School Zone" with a lot of 5.9 and 5.10. Also, there has been bolted routes up to 5.14 and even 5.15, though still not confirmed.