BETA PHOTO: Mike cleans Sulphi at the top of [[Va...
Valldemossa has more than 50 mainly moderate sport routes and a trad route or two spread over a few different areas. The crag actually intersects MA-1131 as it snakes its way from Valldemossa down to the seaside town of Port de'Valldemossa. This has its pluses and minuses The views of the valley and sea are incredible, but you belay and lower into the small one lane wide, two lane road for several of the routes. Gawkers and car noise can also be an annoyance at the main crag.
From the town of Valldemossa, travel west on MA-1130 which becomes MA-10 for .8 km or so. Follow signs to Port de Valldemossa and make a right-hand turn onto MA-1131. This road starts off looking completely serviceable, but is quickly reduced to a single car width with occasional pull-outs where a second car can pass. Drive slowly, open your windows and honk when navigating the blind turns. The main crag meets the road approximately a kilometer after the turn. There is a small pull-out right after the road passes under a section of the cliff.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valldemossa:
Featured Route For Valldemossa
Intrepido 5.11a International : Spain : ... : Main area
Start up the face just to the right of a wide right leaning crack, using the crack. The book says that the crux is the beginning, but I thought that the last 10-15 feet was the business (at least, that's how it felt on TR). ...[more] Browse More Classics in International