This route, and it's neighbor to the the East, Vallalla, offer the best long quartzite routes I've done in the Wasatch. The climbing is clean, exposed and adventurous. The rock is steeper, cleaner and smoother than the "West Slabs". Route finding and protection is challenging, but the climbing for the most part is moderate. Great setting!
Start at the bottom left side of the face.
P1 - A 135' moderate pitch leads to a long ledge with pine trees.
P3 - From the right end of the ledge, diagonal up & right past 2 fixed pins and a crack to a vertical crack which is followed to a bolted belay.(160')
P3 - Diagonal right to another crack which is followed to a prominent pine tree. (150')
P4 - Continue diagonaling up 150' to a belay hole.(belay bolts)
P5 - Trend up & right to a long narrow roof. A small tree protects the move over it. Above, a pin & bolt protect the sparse face above. The exposed belay is at 2 bolts.(170')
P6 - Ascend the face above past an arch to the top.
Begin at the approach gully for the Great Chimney. Ascend the largest and lowest of the 3 prominent diagonaling walls west of the Great Chimney. Approach takes 2 - 2.5 hours.
2 each cams from a #0 TCU to a #2 Camalot. 1 each #3 & #4 Camalots. Small & medium nuts. 55 meter ropes.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fun route - Oly always delivers! A couple of notes - the first pitch was almost a full 60 meters. The pins are hard to see, we never found the 2nd one on the 2nd pitch or the one on the last pitch. On the pitches leading to the bolted belays (2,4) we went up too much and had to trend down and right to find them so maybe think a little more right and up instead of up and right. Good rock quality but not a lot of gear placements - if I did again I'd only bring a single set of cams and assortment of nuts, large to small. Doubles of the smaller cams might be useful. The last two pitches can be combined with a 60m.
May 23, 2014
Anyone know if you can rap off the top of the route straight down with two 60m ropes or do you need to go to the summit and take one of the paths down from there?
Any other way to get to some rap stations?
|By James Garrett|
May 25, 2014
Scramble up and over the ridge crest and then rapping the Great Chimney is possible. That's what we did.