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 ADVANCED
Moderate Mecca
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abbey Road T 
Ace of Hearts T,TR 
Baby Swiss S 
Bad Soup S 
Boodler T 
Born To Bleed 
Carpetbagger T 
Chicken Gumbo for Your Dumbo T 
Chicken Soup for the Soul TR 
Feelin' Groovy S 
Fleet Street T 
Fly From Soup to Nuts TR 
From Soup to Nuts T,TR 
Goose Poop Roof T 
Haj, The T 
Immoral S 
Is It Soup Yet T,S,TR 
Muckraker T 
Not So Moderate T,TR 
Pending Disaster T 
Penny Lane T 
Route to Mecca, The T 
Save It For A Rainy Day T,TR 
Scalawag T 
Side Effects S 
Singing Love Pen T 
Sir Climbalot T 
Soup Nazi TR 
Soupy Sales T,TR 
Stew on This S 
Treacherous Journey T 
Valentine's Day T,TR 
Vera's Roof 
You Who Jim T 
Unsorted Routes:

Valentine's Day 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Grandstaff & Rider, Valentine's Day '88
Page Views: 5,434
Submitted By: George Bell on Apr 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (138)
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Ron Graham on Valentine's Day. Ace of Hearts (5.1...

Description 

This is one of the most obvious routes at the crag and perhaps the first one done. It is a huge left facing corner around the corner from the first few routes you come to.

I'd recommend taping up. The crack is somewhat awkward but has some great jams and stem rests. Two bolt anchor at the top on the left.

Protection 

Rack up to #3 Camalot


Photos of Valentine's Day Slideshow Add Photo
This big fellow freaked me out while belaying when...
This big fellow freaked me out while belaying when...
Good shot of Valentines Day.  Getting ready to lea...
BETA PHOTO: Good shot of Valentines Day. Getting ready to lea...
The Valentine's Day corner.
The Valentine's Day corner.
Leading Valentine's Day
Leading Valentine's Day
We were met by this guy upon arriving at the base ...
We were met by this guy upon arriving at the base ...
A good rest on Valentine's Day
A good rest on Valentine's Day
One of the nice climbs in Moderate Mecca.  A good ...
One of the nice climbs in Moderate Mecca. A good ...
B. Gibbs on Valentine's Day Jan '07
B. Gibbs on Valentine's Day Jan '07
An artist's interpretation of the route.  You will...
An artist's interpretation of the route. You will...
Giant Chuckwalla in the new visitor center ...
Giant Chuckwalla in the new visitor center ...
Jason on Valentine's Day; the thin crack to his le...
Jason on Valentine's Day; the thin crack to his le...
A great climb for a half day.
A great climb for a half day.

Comments on Valentine's Day Add Comment
Show which comments
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Feb 20, 2004

Yeah George.... Gotta watch out for the man-eating dragons that psych out your belay!
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jun 6, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start is a little tricky, but the friction of the stone is good and the abundance of face holds make it fun. Not too much else going on at this crag, but if you're in the area this route deserves a visit.

Decent looking rap bolts just left of the route. Thread the hole with a sling for a little added measure of safety. The TR to the left is also worthy of a go.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 28, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

IMHO the best route at the Moderate Mecca and should not be missed; the crack takes great gear and this route is really FUN!!
By Mike Mu.
Apr 18, 2007

best route at the crag. more fun if you jam the crack the whole way and forego the face holds. bolts at the top and left are in good condition. the 5.10+ face climb to the left is great too. just follow the thin crack system, i.e chalk marks.
By Mark L
May 13, 2008

Good route - look for the stems and move fast through the cruxes.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 9, 2010

Good stances, good number of solid moves, good gear - just wish it were longer!
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is probably a great route for a beginner 5.8 leader. Doubles of #0.4 to #3 camalot with just biners are a perfect, light, and quick way to sew it up. Anchor and chains in good condition.
By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 26, 2013

Excellent crack with right hand jams and left hand crimps. The route can be sewn up with a standard rack. The worst route of the crag! (Just saying that so everyone leaves it for me) :)
By Howard.
From: Irvine, CA
Dec 25, 2013

Used #2 yellow Mastercam rather than a tighter piece down low in first thin section because gear is notorious for getting stuck.
By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is about 40 feet, not 100. Super easy approach, and fun while it lasts.