A popular and casual route up the towering South face. Loose rock is prevalent on the lower portion of the route and a helmet is advised.
Follow the beach toward the tower then where the sidewalk ends scramble up scree slopes to the base of the rock. There is a spray painted arrow at the base of the route.
Pitch 1: 110 ft. 5.3
wander up the loose and dirty slab with sparse pro to a set of 4 belay bolts.
Pitch 2: 120 ft. 5.4
Walk left along a bushy ledge until you reach a right leaning ramp and romp up the ramp until you are directly above your belayer and belay.
Pitch 3: 90 ft. 5.9+/10-
Head right past some impressive crack systems until you reach a polished spot where two cracks merge in a V shape. There are two bolts here to ease the polish factor. Belay on a slab above.
Pitch 4: 70 ft. 5.7
Follow a few bolts up and left along a slab and belay near a bush.
Pitch 5: 135 ft. 5.7
The goods. A long and airy pitch with incredible views and position. Head for the ridge and belay there.
Pitch 6: 120 ft. 5.7
Traverse left a ways until you find a nice crack through a slab and ascend the crack until you reach a comfy belay.
Pitches 7 & 8: 200 ft. 5.easy
cruise for the top on non-descript ground enjoying the view.
Walk off and eat seafood...
manky old bolts piton and other fixed gear. Small rack to 2"
Pitch 2 of Valencianos extended all the way to the...
Finish of Pitch 5 of Valencianos extended all the ...
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Jul 2, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13
Basically 5.7 or less with one slippy move (maybe just 5.9?) right next to good gear. A bit of a ramble but nice views at the top of the big slab.