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Routes in Penon d'Ifach
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Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mare Nostrum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Polvos Magicos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Via Pany T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 4,956 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Oct 20, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
Note: Access to the tourist trail on Penyal D'ifach is currently restricted by permit. This trail is only descent for most routes and the approach for many. There are 300 permits given per day. You can acquire a permit here: gva.es/va/inicio/procedimie…
Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.
According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.
Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.
According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.
Description
A popular and casual route up the towering South face. Loose rock is prevalent on the lower portion of the route and a helmet is advised.
Follow the beach toward the tower then where the sidewalk ends scramble up scree slopes to the base of the rock. There is a spray painted arrow at the base of the route.
Pitch 1: 110 ft. 5.3
wander up the loose and dirty slab with sparse pro to a set of 4 belay bolts.
Pitch 2: 120 ft. 5.4
Walk left along a bushy ledge until you reach a right leaning ramp and romp up the ramp until you are directly above your belayer and belay.
Pitch 3: 90 ft. 5.9+/10-
Head right past some impressive crack systems until you reach a polished spot where two cracks merge in a V shape. There are two bolts here to ease the polish factor. Belay on a slab above.
Pitch 4: 70 ft. 5.7
Follow a few bolts up and left along a slab and belay near a bush.
Pitch 5: 135 ft. 5.7
The goods. A long and airy pitch with incredible views and position. Head for the ridge and belay there.
Pitch 6: 120 ft. 5.7
Traverse left a ways until you find a nice crack through a slab and ascend the crack until you reach a comfy belay.
Pitches 7 & 8: 200 ft. 5.easy
cruise for the top on non-descript ground enjoying the view.
Walk off and eat seafood...
Follow the beach toward the tower then where the sidewalk ends scramble up scree slopes to the base of the rock. There is a spray painted arrow at the base of the route.
Pitch 1: 110 ft. 5.3
wander up the loose and dirty slab with sparse pro to a set of 4 belay bolts.
Pitch 2: 120 ft. 5.4
Walk left along a bushy ledge until you reach a right leaning ramp and romp up the ramp until you are directly above your belayer and belay.
Pitch 3: 90 ft. 5.9+/10-
Head right past some impressive crack systems until you reach a polished spot where two cracks merge in a V shape. There are two bolts here to ease the polish factor. Belay on a slab above.
Pitch 4: 70 ft. 5.7
Follow a few bolts up and left along a slab and belay near a bush.
Pitch 5: 135 ft. 5.7
The goods. A long and airy pitch with incredible views and position. Head for the ridge and belay there.
Pitch 6: 120 ft. 5.7
Traverse left a ways until you find a nice crack through a slab and ascend the crack until you reach a comfy belay.
Pitches 7 & 8: 200 ft. 5.easy
cruise for the top on non-descript ground enjoying the view.
Walk off and eat seafood...
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