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The Bilbo Buttresses
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abandoned project TR 
Debbie Does Donuts T 
El Chivo S 
Val De Mello S 
White Trash T 
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Val De Mello 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford, Doug Zeissner & John Thackray, December 1989
Page Views: 737
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Adrienne Kentner getting slabby on Val de Mello 5....


OK, maybe it was just me, but I thought this line was hard for its given grade of 10b. Around to the right of Bilbo Buttress, one can find this short line of bolts, centered on an tiny, odd, 'ramp' feature near the climb's base. Climb up and onto this and beyond. The crux was a weird combination of balance and friction that was a little unpleasant for a J-tree warm up or welcome, and felt sandbagged. None the less, the climb had merit in teaching what is possible on that rock compared to what I am used to in other areas.


4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (Watch the first clip!)

Photos of Val De Mello Slideshow Add Photo
"Valle De Mello". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Valle De Mello". Photo by Blitzo.

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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 29, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This climb is 5.11. It's hard. Tony is correct. It is under-rated at 5.10c. (Sorry about that...)
By Richard Shore
Dec 29, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'll throw down for .10d/11a on this one. Challenging technical slab/face moves around the second bolt.

The anchor was a bit messy - it appears that people were rapping off only one bolt based on the setup I observed. I re-equalized the chain and links on two bolts for the rappel. Note - the rappel is off the backside of the formation.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 29, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks, Richard, for fixing up the anchor;....and good job on the climb too......it's a tough one......I remember being way scared on the FA......hand drillling for stances all pooped out and gripped....
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