Left Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Vagmarken Hill is the large rocky hillside on the east side of the road between The Negropolis and Quail Springs Picnic Area (Trashcan Rock
). Routes are scattered all over the hillside, with most involving quick and easy approaches that get one up above the desert floor and provide a bird's eye view of the surrounding desert.
The left side of the hill hosts the Intimidator Rocks, where you'll find a couple of short bolted routes - Just Stop It
(5.10b) and Bold Is A Four Letter Word
(5.10a). Right of this is a large section of rock with Vagmarken Buttress
(5.7), the original route on the hillside and an enjoyable route at the grade. Still further right is another large mass of rock with two distinct white dikes - James Brown's Celebrity Hot Tub Party (5.10b) worth doing if only for the name and the Right-Handed Dyke (5.10a). Finally on the extreme right margin of the hillside is The Place Where Sheep Sleep, which has several good sport routes including Were Sheep Here First (5.10d) and Where Sheep Sleep (5.12a).
The west-facing aspect of the hillside makes this a good place to find shade in the morning and some sun in the afternoon, although it is fully exposed to the occasional winds. Whether heading in or out of the Park, the short approach times make this an area to check out and enjoy.
This is the large rocky hillside 4.9 miles from the Park entrance on the left (east) side of the road. Alternately, it lies 4.0 miles from Hidden Valley Campground if coming from that direction. Several pullouts exist along the road - find the one closest to the portion of the hillside you'll be visiting to cut down on the approach time.
Trails lead across the desert to the base of the hillside, but once on the hillside proper you'll be travelling over rough terrain with the possibility of some scrambling. Approach times vary from 5 to 15 minutes typically.
Climbing Season For the Quail Springs Area area.
Weather station 8.3 miles from here
28 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',23],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Vagmarken Hill
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Vagmarken Hill:
Featured Route For Vagmarken Hill
Vagmarken Buttress 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Vagmarken Buttress Left
If you're looking for the longest climb on Vagmarken, this is the one. Start just left of the Buttress prow in a crack dihedral the shoots a straight line up the central face of the rock. Midway up you'll find a bolt and then moves slightly right to easier climing to the top. Caution! There is loose rock on this route; especially the large, tempting flake just by the move after the bolt. To descend; scramble up to the top and head right to drop down the right side of the...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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Intimidator Rocks. Photo by Blitzo.
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BETA PHOTO: Clinbing at Vagmarken. Photo by Blitzo.
Wrong Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
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Somewhere on Vagmarken. Photo by Blitzo.
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By Bo Johnston
Feb 26, 2005
FYI...Vagmarken means "Roadsigns" in Swedish. Amazing, eh?
By C Miller
Feb 28, 2005
Cool info, thanks for enlightening us!