V8 5.11a R
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | DLFA |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Trad Nanny on Sep 1, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Rhoads, topping out the lead.
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Description "V8" starts out in an easy crack system then climbs up the face laybacking on smears.
Location A separate tower from the main wall on Many Pines Buttress. Find it by finding "Michaels Project". Turn to your left 90', V8 is the face in front of you with the leaning tree in front of it.
TR can be set by climbing up the backside of the tower from the bottom or down climbing off the trail above and then up and around the east corner of the tower.
Protection TR or good pro down low then runout to the top. Easier to go to the base of the route and climb up the left side of the tower to set the TR.
By Trad Nanny
Sep 1, 2009
| Sharing the same start and going straight up the face just to the left of "V8" is "Pleasures of the Groin" 5.12b. No gear to speak of on that unfortunately :( |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 18, 2012
| Some of the best 5.11 climbing in the whole park I think.
The upper sequence of moves is brilliant climbing that require spot on foot work and smearing technique. Rhoads has boned up and done these moves on lead with the pro way below the feet....very impresive... |
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