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Cardinal Pinnacle
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V8 Crack 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 3,832
Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Greg Jackson starts up the jagged 'V8 Crack'

Description 

An exceptional arching crack on beautiful orange granite. Steep and difficult for the grade, it requires endurance. The crux is about 15 feet of thin hands through a couple bulges/small roofs.


Location 

The route is not on The Cardinal Pinnacle proper; it is on the small formation to the left. Rap the route or scramble off the backside. Lots of loose rock at the top so be careful while rappelling or belaying your second up.


Protection 

1 to 4" cams, doubles in 2-3" sizes



Photos of V8 Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Me placing a cam at the crux - photo courtesy G. Helm
Me placing a cam at the crux - photo courtesy G. H...
Garrett at the good rest after the green-red camalot crux.
Garrett at the good rest after the green-red camal...
V-8 Crack is the sharp splitter in the upper right of the picture just right of the dark red streak, the climber is at the top of Shine or Whine.
BETA PHOTO: V-8 Crack is the sharp splitter in the upper right...
Resting
Resting
Greg Jackson in thin hands just past the first crux
Greg Jackson in thin hands just past the first cru...
Greg Jackson on 'V8 Crack'
Greg Jackson on 'V8 Crack'
Comments on V8 Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Haydn
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This route is excellent but much easier than 10d, more like 10a/b.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2010

Um, no.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 9, 2010

A superb route that climbs as exciting as it looks. Lots of different sizes and movement required on this route.

It is definately not 10b especially comparing it to other ratings at this crag.

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 14, 2010

New, bolted anchor w/ Mussy hooks installed today (9-15-10), and all chewed up shitty tat removed. You can still reach the anchors from the top for TRing.

vic lawson

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

thanks Vic

By slim
Administrator
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

i thought this route was extremely easy for the grade also. i have a hard time believing dale would call it 10d. he would probably call it 10a or so. the crack is really user friendly and there are a lot of peripheral hold for the hands and feet. the difficulties are over really quickly, then it is just secure and fun.

i racked up after looking at it from the pinnacle, and thought it would be #1 camalot and smaller (should have brought up to a 3 or 3.5 camalot). needless to say i was kind of in trouble with gear early on and had to do some budgeting. luckily the climbing is really secure and you can spend some time horsing around with gear a bit.

By trying hard
From: Sierra East Side
May 24, 2013

SPLITTER ALERT!!!

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Outstanding route! When you look around at the splitter #1 sized roof, your jaw may in fact hit your belayer - ten cuidado!

Stellar, stellar climb. When I was up there a month or two ago the crowds were too great for West Face or Crack Kingdom, yet this was so good I was pretty satisfied. Five stars!