An exceptional arching crack on beautiful orange granite. Steep and difficult for the grade, it requires endurance. The crux is about 15 feet of thin hands through a couple bulges/small roofs.
The route is not on The Cardinal Pinnacle proper; it is on the small formation to the left. Rap the route or scramble off the backside. Lots of loose rock at the top so be careful while rappelling or belaying your second up.
1 to 4" cams, doubles in 2-3" sizes
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
This route is excellent but much easier than 10d, more like 10a/b.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2010
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 9, 2010
A superb route that climbs as exciting as it looks. Lots of different sizes and movement required on this route.
It is definately not 10b especially comparing it to other ratings at this crag.
|By Vic Lawson|
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 14, 2010
New, bolted anchor w/ Mussy hooks installed today (9-15-10), and all chewed up shitty tat removed. You can still reach the anchors from the top for TRing.
|By Adam Winters|
From: the Shire
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Jul 12, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
i thought this route was extremely easy for the grade also. i have a hard time believing dale would call it 10d. he would probably call it 10a or so. the crack is really user friendly and there are a lot of peripheral hold for the hands and feet. the difficulties are over really quickly, then it is just secure and fun.
i racked up after looking at it from the pinnacle, and thought it would be #1 camalot and smaller (should have brought up to a 3 or 3.5 camalot). needless to say i was kind of in trouble with gear early on and had to do some budgeting. luckily the climbing is really secure and you can spend some time horsing around with gear a bit.
|By trying hard|
From: East side Sierra
May 24, 2013
|By Weston L|
From: Summerlin, NV
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Outstanding route! When you look around at the splitter #1 sized roof, your jaw may in fact hit your belayer - ten cuidado!
Stellar, stellar climb. When I was up there a month or two ago the crowds were too great for West Face or Crack Kingdom, yet this was so good I was pretty satisfied. Five stars!