Just curious does anyone run their rope directly thru their v thread holes rather than using cord and leaving that behind. Seems that would be better than pulling rope against cord, also you're leaving cord behind.
with dry twin ropes in cold conditions, yes. having your rope freeze in place really sucks. Once you start pulling you can't stop. The friction can melt the ice which will refreeze and get your rope stuck. Most of the time carrying a knife and length of 6 mm cord is easier and safer.
By Amadeus Administrator From Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Dec 16, 2013
We've been using the Abalakov (real name of the V-thread named after the Russian who invented the technique) for years. We've always used cord to do it, but yesterday I saw an info-video from Petzl on Youtube about using the rope directly through your Abalakov. To be honest, I'd never thought of that, but I'm skeptical of using it, especially in wet conditions as it would easily freeze inside the hole.
Here is the Petzl video with them using the rope directly through the Abalakov:
One of the main points forgotten about cord is that it lessened the impact from other materials being used as a bail anchor -- pipes, tubing, or other kinds of redneckery shit.
In so much as you could argue a rope around a tree, or around a rock or horn, certainly it is possible. However, it seems the cleanest rap with cord has the better opportunity not to get stuck and also keep the rope in good condition. People get ropes stuck all the time. Maybe it's not of great consequence doing a two-three pitch ice crag (which usually have bail stations anyway), but a more committing route, I'm using cord and getting the hell out of there.
This method works extremely well. I thread my 9.2 single through the ice and tie my 7mm tag line to it for double rope raps and have never had a rope freeze up. The way I see it, you've eliminated the weakest link, the cordage. The next weakest link (granted you've threaded good ice) is the tag line which if that were to blow the over hand knot would jam in the ice and you wouldn't plummet. Obviously twins or doubles work great too. It cuts down on trash to. The only draw back is you have to remove the end caps or tape from some ropes to be able to hook it with your threading tool, and it can fray the last inch of rope a little from repeated hooking.
Thanks guys some great info here. All things considered I'm going to give it several tries with different configurations, in an area where if the rope gets stuck I will still be able to get back to the anchor safely. Mostly trying a 90degree V, an 80degree V and also an A thread (vertical holes rather than horizonal) What I'm thinking is that with an 80degree V any possible melting that could freeze the rope in place would flow out. This same idea applies with the A thread. I'm excited to try this and will post later after putting it to test a bit.
Only real issue is picking out the weave at the end of the rope with your v-thread tool. Otherwise, no worries. I imagine a rare condition with super cold (sub zero) temps on a climb with running water your ropes might freeze, but otherwise probably not. Always a good idea to keep pulling once you start in any case, but probably doubly good here when doing "naked" v-threads (as this technique is sometimes called).