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v-scale vs. climbing scale
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Jun 12, 2013
Tall beta on Green Slime vs. Bag Of Devouring. Rea...
Jay Knower wrote:
JJNS, where did you get this scale? It's different than the one I'm used to seeing. I've always thought it goes like this: V4: 5.12- V5: 5.12 V6: 5.12+ V7: 5.13- V8: 5.13 V9: 5.13+ V10: 5.14- etc...


The comparison appears to be opinionated. I, 6'1 180 to 185pds- depending on dieting and cardio, can crush v0-v7 and v5-v7 1 out of 5 I can onsight/flash. But literally every v8,9,10 i've attempted I either injure my tendon or strain a muscle... I would say 5.13- and 5.13 would be guarded by v8s... I'm thinking a more accurate scale would include the negatives in bouldering problems which are readily available at your more serious bouldering gyms or outdoor areas that are established.

Once you start getting into 5.12- 5.12 5.12+ there should be a difference in the bouldering too.

I will start at 5.11 as being a warm up/flash for anyone reading this.

v5 = 5.11
v6 = 5.11+
v6+ = 5.12-
v7- = 5.12
v7 = 5.12+
v7+ = 5.13-
v8 = 5.13
v8+ = 5.13+

I can't say anything beyond 5.13s or v8+, I simply can't handle it on the hands.
Tyler Garrett
From Dallas, TX
Joined Sep 26, 2012
124 points
Administrator
Jun 12, 2013
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
i think willS list is correct. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points
Jun 12, 2013
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
slim wrote:
i think willS list is correct.


+1
Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Joined Jul 17, 2006
274 points
Jun 12, 2013
The ONLY way the afore-posted comparison charts are useful, is if you intend to climb a V-grade route for 60-100 ft (!) The rating scores the HARDEST move on the climb. A 20 ft boulder route with a V5 crux is NOT the same thing as a 100 ft trad route that is graded 5.11d (!!)

....think about it
ascender30
Joined Jan 19, 2011
209 points
Jun 12, 2013
I THINK THERE IS A NOTHER DIFFERENFCE HERE NO ONE HAS MENTIONED YET,
bouldering problems have a set pattern, and marked holds you can generally see and vizualize the moves for from the ground,. you can also work the moves one at a time, often without having to reclimb the entire route..
on a lot of upper level climbs this isnt possible, and the holds are more difficult to find, and read the way the route goes (especially when considering different climbers varying skillsets.
goingUp
From over here
Joined Apr 9, 2013
32 points
Jun 12, 2013
Winter bouldering gets cold.
No one mentioned that because climbs are graded on the easiest way up with good beta, not how hard they are to work. Zach Kling
From Indianapolis, Indiana
Joined Nov 25, 2011
42 points
Apr 7, 2014
australianbouldering.com/table... cragrat
Joined Jan 30, 2012
0 points
Apr 7, 2014
REtro
goingUp wrote:
I THINK THERE IS A NOTHER DIFFERENFCE HERE NO ONE HAS MENTIONED YET, bouldering problems have a set pattern, and marked holds you can generally see and vizualize the moves for from the ground,. you can also work the moves one at a time, often without having to reclimb the entire route.. on a lot of upper level climbs this isnt possible, and the holds are more difficult to find, and read the way the route goes (especially when considering different climbers varying skillsets.

Guess you never top roped a project or hung and worked moves.
R. Moran
From Moab , UT
Joined Mar 18, 2009
118 points
Sep 18, 2014
I think that, generally, By going Up is right. I'm also more comfortable bouldering v4-6 than climbing 5.12 since working and re-working the moves, in usual situations, is more convenient. Boulder problems seem more amenable to projecting than do routes. Sean Gould
From McCall, Idaho
Joined Jun 27, 2012
21 points
Apr 22, 2015
JJNS wrote:
v0=5.10 v1=5.10+ v2=5.11 v3=5.11+ v4=5.12- v5=5.12a/b v6=5.12b/c v7=5.12c/d v8=5.13 v9=5.13a/b v10=5.13b/c v11=5.13c/d v12=5.14a/b v13=5.14b/c v14=5.14c/d v15=5.15 Ask yourself why V4 is simple for you. V4 is super hard and scary for some. Try and approach 5.12 with the same mental confidence you would a V4. You want to go through all you preparations from the ground. Once you have considered all the risk factors and formulated a game plan and visualized yourself sending get on that thing and crush it. All your second guessing should be done before you start climbing. Worst case you fall safely onto your rope and learn something about the route, which you can improve next attempt.




This is pretty accurate I would say because I climb 5.12d and can send v7s pretty easily and 8s can be rough but it depends on the route.
Alec Vickery
Joined Apr 22, 2015
0 points
Apr 22, 2015
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-f...
Why is everyone trying to force V vs YDS into a one-to-one correspondence?

In case you haven't read previous posts in this thread:
(reposting from page 4):

I summarized my thoughts in this blog post:

The Landscape: a new look at route grades

V to YDS correspondence
V to YDS correspondence


There are clearly a lot of limitations as to what one can claim of such a correspondence. I'm not trying to comment on how routes should be graded. I'm trying to show a pattern in how they are graded.
Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Joined Jun 22, 2010
234 points
Apr 22, 2015
R. Moran wrote:
Guess you never top roped a project or hung and worked moves.

I definately have. However, point still is most problems you still have to get to the top of first. get the top rope up. then re-work. Also holds outside are tricky to find the 'direction of' and sequence of. Just because a hold is there and visible doesnt mean its good, usefull or in the 'proper sequence'.
Naturally this makes them harder to figure out and send, let alone onsight.
Boulder problems are typically the holds you need, thats it (not always).
The other issue I have with sport/trad routes that are within my ability to perform the moves (I could boulder) is having to hold an tricky stance while clipping/placing pro. I could go past the move, but to hold it, the stamina required to place pro and fiddle with a rope/gear is not always there (at and near my limit).
goingUp
From over here
Joined Apr 9, 2013
32 points


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