V-Notch Couloir 5.5 WI2-3
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.2 WI6- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Usually Fall |
| Submitted By: | BradLipovsky on Sep 6, 2009 |
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in the V-Notch
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Description Best in the Fall when the snow has turned to remnant ice. Start early to avoid rockfall from the freeze-thaw cycle. The crux is getting over the bergschrund.
Protection Alpine trad rack plus ice screws.
Calf Burn in the V-Notch!
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Long and sustained (V-Notch)
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Ginger Follows the V-Notch
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| Comments on V-Notch Couloir |
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By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: Easy 5th WI3
| Climbed this in mostly ice conditions. Great long route sustained at 50-60 degrees. Bergshrund still had a bridge. Lightning storms chased us away from the traverse over Polemonium and down U-Notch, so we hustled over to Sill and descended down familiar territory. Was able to use the rock along the left side for many of the belay anchors, but it took some ingenuity and stance planning. 6 60m rope stretching pitches. |
By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 28, 2010
| the last couple hundred vertical feet on the summit rock was stout old-school 4th Class. (more like 5.7) I think it was Cameron Burns book and story that stated and supported how difficult the top was. Im glad we had a 1/4 rack and rope. 5-star peak. |
By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Mar 24, 2011
rating: Easy 5th AI2
| Just another classic ski run of the Sierra! Also check out climber's right couloir for a steeper/narrower/more offcamber ski run. Great line! |
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