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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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V-3 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, Bonnie Prudden, 1954
Page Views: 5,781
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (145)
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Becky Diamond securely wedged in the notch.

Description 

Another classic Gunks 5.7 pitch, sustained and interesting.

The V-3 access trail is about an 11-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 7-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a sitting boulder on the right. At the cliff, look for a crack directly below a large V-shaped notch at the right end of a roof band.

P1: Start just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff. Climb the cracks and corners, aiming for the exposed V-notch. Continue up a flared chimney to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.7, 80'.

Rappel from the anchor.

It's also possible to continue with a very easy pitch to the GT ledge, and then do a third pitch above the GT ledge, but this would require two ropes to rappel.

Protection 

Standard Rack; the route is very well protected.


Photos of V-3 Slideshow Add Photo
In the crux.
In the crux.
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Tricia Fusco in the V-3 notch.
Underneath the notch.
Underneath the notch.
Elaine Matthews at the start of the difficulties.
Elaine Matthews at the start of the difficulties.
Jennifer Wies in the V on V3
Jennifer Wies in the V on V3

Comments on V-3 Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 18, 2014
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 15, 2006

Don't even think about continuing up pitch 2 or 3. Dirty and no fun. The move through the V is awesome. I think there is a pin in there and I know there is a decent cam placement before exiting as well.
By adrenalated
From: Thornton, CO
Jun 3, 2006

My favorite pitch in the Gunks, so far. The crux is wild and while not hard, it requires a good bit of creativity.
By Mike Caruso
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell.
By vanishing spy
Aug 3, 2009

The crack in the V stays wet for a while after rain. It's possible to stem and move through without using the holds in the back of the V. There is a Pin up right after pulling the crux. The bad pin before the roof does not need to be clipped, a cam placement is available just above it.
By Gunkiemike
Oct 3, 2009

There's a good nut placement about mid-notch.

It may also be worth mentioning that there are 2 ways to make the last few moves up to the notch. Climbing the crack in the steep right wall of the corner is the more obvious way, and seems to be what most leaders do their first time up there. But creative climbing allows a more direct approach, which can make for a better rope line, and is IMO more rewarding. It might just be 7+ however.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 4, 2009

This is a great climb. You can make it harder by climbing the right face below the v notch and then traversing over. I probably climbed up and down the right side five times before I committed to getting into the v. Stick your shoulders on one side, feet on the other and just squinch your way up the chimney. You can get a great nut in the back of the chimney, then a couple of more squinchy moves to the pin. Lots of fun.
By analogical
Oct 11, 2010

As Gunkiemike says, there's a nut placement in the middle of the V. In fact, it's one of the best nut placements in the entire Gunks.

The V itself can be chimneyed, very comfortably and securely, until you can stand on the jug that gets you into it. At that point you have the pin, a cam or tricam next to the pin, and can stem through to the top.

And definitely don't go past the chains. Even the 5.7 variation finish isn't worth it, a single move of 5.7 after 80 or 100 feet of boring low 5th class.
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Oct 26, 2010

Anyone ever bail right at the horizontal below the groove? O:) It was scrunchy even for me.
By Galen Rahmlow
From: Weehawken
Apr 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Wow, the V is awesome. For us the crux is getting up to get your shoulder in the groove. After that it's lots of fun. Gold and red c4's are helpful right under the groove.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 10, 2012

I definitely missed the supposedly great nut placement in the V. Would have been nice but you can definitely get pretty securely wedged in there. Fun climb.
By Kurtz
Jun 27, 2013

Did all three pitches. P1 seemed easier than the other comments would suggest. Good pro. P2 was very easy and fun. You can just fly up. Pulling the overhang on P3 was great fun but much harder (5.8ish). P3 is very short and makes rapping off a pain. We bushwhacked left and down (30 yards?) until we found a tree with slings. We encountered a rock that made eerie "breathing" noises. There was no wind. Could not figure out what caused the noise. Spooky!
By Gunkiemike
May 18, 2014

Just FYI - a climber prying out a stuck nut today broke off part (a small part) of the two-handed jug you use to pull into the V. It's not any harder now, just a liitle different. And the broken edge may be a bit harsh on the hands until it gets a lot more traffic.