V-3 

Don't even think about continuing up pitch 2 or 3. Dirty and no fun. The move through the V is awesome. I think there is a pin in there and I know there is a decent cam placement before exiting as well.

My favorite pitch in the Gunks, so far. The crux is wild and while not hard, it requires a good bit of creativity.

Did this years ago as an on-site. I remember cursing Hans Kraus below the v-groove and thinking what would I have done with hobnailed boots and hemp rope (well maybe things had evolved by '54). So I stood up and put my ass into it, then I laughed like hell.

The crack in the V stays wet for a while after rain. It's possible to stem and move through without using the holds in the back of the V. There is a Pin up right after pulling the crux. The bad pin before the roof does not need to be clipped, a cam placement is available just above it.

There's a good nut placement about mid-notch.

It may also be worth mentioning that there are 2 ways to make the last few moves up to the notch. Climbing the crack in the steep right wall of the corner is the more obvious way, and seems to be what most leaders do their first time up there. But creative climbing allows a more direct approach, which can make for a better rope line, and is IMO more rewarding. It might just be 7+ however.

This is a great climb. You can make it harder by climbing the right face below the v notch and then traversing over. I probably climbed up and down the right side five times before I committed to getting into the v. Stick your shoulders on one side, feet on the other and just squinch your way up the chimney. You can get a great nut in the back of the chimney, then a couple of more squinchy moves to the pin. Lots of fun.

As Gunkiemike says, there's a nut placement in the middle of the V. In fact, it's one of the best nut placements in the entire Gunks.

The V itself can be chimneyed, very comfortably and securely, until you can stand on the jug that gets you into it. At that point you have the pin, a cam or tricam next to the pin, and can stem through to the top.

And definitely don't go past the chains. Even the 5.7 variation finish isn't worth it, a single move of 5.7 after 80 or 100 feet of boring low 5th class.

Anyone ever bail right at the horizontal below the groove? O:) It was scrunchy even for me.

Wow, the V is awesome. For us the crux is getting up to get your shoulder in the groove. After that it's lots of fun. Gold and red c4's are helpful right under the groove.

I definitely missed the supposedly great nut placement in the V. Would have been nice but you can definitely get pretty securely wedged in there. Fun climb.