|(L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall
Bouldery start up to shallow corner (small left facing). Traverse after 4th or 7th bolt 5.9) to the bolted arete. A longer draw may lessen rope drag at this bolt. Finish directly on the arete. Worthy variation.
Good option if you have no SLCDs to finish Stinky Finger.
Start just left of Easy Rider crack on bulge.
9 bolts to chain anchor
Final overhanging arete of "Utopian Vistas". Shar...
Clipping the 6th bolt off the rail with the crux a...
Jeffrey on Utopian Vista
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This route (with the traverse left at the top) is a good way to finish Stinky Finger if you don't have any cams; but finishing straight up the wide easy crack is more aesthetic with less rope drag, in my opinion.
If you do finish the route by traversing left, one plus is you can throw a TR on the excellent roof-to-arete route Hopper's Hangover.
The first crux on this route (shared with Stinky Finger) is a beautiful mental puzzle where you don't know which side of the arete to be on. It appears as though it will be much harder than it is. Fun stuff.