| Utopia |
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from the road
Description Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.
Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20
Getting There 1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utopia:
Tjurunga 5.6 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Terma 5.9 PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 330 feet
Featured Route For Utopia
Spear of Destiny 5.9 PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Utopia
Climb the big chimney between the tower and main wall with crazy body bridge and stem moves. Clean, classic, great fun. Crux seems to be at the last bolt leaving the wall and getting on to the tower. All day shade. Easy to top rope after you get a rope up. Comfortable belay. Must do tower and minimum gear is going to make this one a favorite.... [more] Browse More Classics in UT
"secret" bouldering area on approach
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tjurunga
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terma
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spear of destiny tower
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adam-ondi-ahman
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Qebehsenuef
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Not so secret V6/7 overhung splitter finger crack....
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leroy in fron of Notovitch codex
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rapping off S=k log W
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By Ben Kiessel
Jun 11, 2012
| Where is this in relation to Towers A, B, C and D, listed on page 110 of Eric's Desert Rock III? |
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 22, 2012
| not sure. sounds similar. same general wall at least. nothing had any anchors we did. the one we called tjurunga had a small pile of rocks on a sub summit that could have been a carne at one time. not sure. could be one of those??? there are only two towers in "our" area that both climb the left sides. A, B, C, all climb the right. then theres D. these may be more south??? "our" area is just before the road bends hard right if your heading up river. the ramp of terma is obvious from the road. good evening area this time of year. if ya get up there let us know anything you find that would help in keeping the info clear and correct. thanks |
By Ben Kiessel
Jul 4, 2012
| Even if they are the same towers, I dig your names better then Towers A,B,C,D. |
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 2, 2012
| skyler says a, b, c, d are much more south (downriver), more above big bend boulders. |
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Feb 28, 2013
| formerly, wall above north big bend boulder; then, north big bend boulder wall. it was our intent from the beginning to establish a new location thru the name, and then, once word got out, change the name to something more fitting. WELCOME TO UTOPIA! |
By Bondo
Feb 28, 2013
| Utopia is a great place to climb thanks to Paul. A 30min approach for a whole day of great climbing. from towers to face climbing and great cracks. |
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