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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 
Qebehsenuef T,S 
S=k log W T,S 
Spear of Destiny T 
Terma T 
Tjurunga T 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012






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Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.

Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20

Getting There 

1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utopia:
Terma   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   
Spear of Destiny   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Adam-Ondi-Ahman   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Utopia

Featured Route For Utopia
spear of destiny tower

Spear of Destiny 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Utopia
Climb the big chimney between the tower and main wall with crazy body bridge and stem moves. Clean, classic, great fun. Crux seems to be at the last bolt leaving the wall and getting on to the tower. All day shade. Easy to top rope after you get a rope up. Comfortable belay. Must do tower and minimum gear is going to make this one a favorite....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Utopia Slideshow Add Photo
from the road
from the road
"secret" bouldering area on approach
"secret" bouldering area on approach
leroy in fron of Notovitch codex
leroy in fron of Notovitch codex
Not so secret V6/7 overhung splitter finger crack....
Not so secret V6/7 overhung splitter finger crack....
spear of destiny tower
spear of destiny tower
rapping off S=k log W
rapping off S=k log W

Comments on Utopia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Jun 11, 2012
Where is this in relation to Towers A, B, C and D, listed on page 110 of Eric's Desert Rock III?
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Jun 22, 2012
not sure. sounds similar. same general wall at least. nothing had any anchors we did. the one we called tjurunga had a small pile of rocks on a sub summit that could have been a carne at one time. not sure. could be one of those??? there are only two towers in "our" area that both climb the left sides. A, B, C, all climb the right. then theres D. these may be more south??? "our" area is just before the road bends hard right if your heading up river. the ramp of terma is obvious from the road. good evening area this time of year. if ya get up there let us know anything you find that would help in keeping the info clear and correct. thanks
By Ben Kiessel
Jul 4, 2012
Even if they are the same towers, I dig your names better then Towers A,B,C,D.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 2, 2012
skyler says a, b, c, d are much more south (downriver), more above big bend boulders.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Feb 28, 2013
formerly, wall above north big bend boulder; then, north big bend boulder wall. it was our intent from the beginning to establish a new location thru the name, and then, once word got out, change the name to something more fitting. WELCOME TO UTOPIA!
By Bondo
Feb 28, 2013
Utopia is a great place to climb thanks to Paul. A 30min approach for a whole day of great climbing. from towers to face climbing and great cracks.
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