Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs offers some limited but quality sandstone bouldering and is great for days when you want to stay close to town and close to the ground. I wouldn't classify it as a destination area by any means, but if you are in town it can be worth checking out for a quick pump.
P.S. If you do visit, please try to keep the place clean. Be a good steward and pack it out to the trash cans.
From I-25 take exit 146 for Garden of the Gods Road. Drive west approximately 1.1 miles and turn right onto Centennial Boulevard. After 1.4 miles turn right onto Mule Deer Drive. Follow Mule Deer past Pinon Valley Park and turn left onto Pinon Park Drive. Pinon Park deadends at a gate, park along the street here and walk up the dirt road. After about 100m you will be at the boulders.
Some of the info I have given is based on my own experience and from conversations with others in the area. As a result some nomenclature may be incorrect. I believe the ratings I have given are about consensus. If anyone (i.e. Dan, Ric, Jeff, Bueller) knows better than I, or if you made the first ascent of any problem, let me know so I can edit the route info and give credit where it is due.
This area is great for after work sessions. I used to boulder here a lot, Veasy-V1? They were all on the rocks downhill of the Galley boulder. There is one problem right next to the road and a tree that pulls through a bunch of pockets, does anyone know more about this problem? The feet are awkward, but the hand holds are solid, some of the best rock in Ute Valley.
By Ben Snyder From: CSprings, Sandy Hook (CT) Apr 8, 2008
Today (4/8/08), some buddies and I cleaned up the landing zone between the Cube and Pungase boulders. The increase in space under the latter now allows for a long, cool, and difficult link-up of pungase into center route. This project is listed on the 'Main Boulder' page. The Valley has a new best problem IMO. Get to it...
Fun place if you don't have a lot of time or just started bouldering outside. Everything is really easy to find and there are a bundle of easier climbs. Best thing to do is just wander around and get on whatever looks like it's in your climbing range. Worth at least one day of messing around up there. It's not as lame as everyone says.
Does any one know what the traverse is rated on the main wall? and also the route on the south side of the big boulder going up the arette to the left of floater? It was a sit start with some nice heel hooks.
Ute Valley rock quality is generally poor, but it is an awesome playground, circuit area, or place to learn bouldering. Its location, lack of access issues (so far), and fun problems makes it a popular place these days for the Colorado Springs area. Please be respectful, pick up trash if you see it (you will), and have fun!
I started bouldering at Ute Valley in the early eighties and used the area primarily for training. Ute is great for circuit bouldering. Before gyms I used to do a twelve problem session there a couple of times a week. Several were eliminates and traverses not included in this guide. Inconsistent rock quality but very interesting and fun terrain. It's good to see how popular the area has become.