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A Truly Golden Little Book, No Less Beneficial Than Entertaining, of the Best State of a Republic, and of the New Island Utopia.
That's probably what the FA team (sans Thomas More
for you book fiends out there) thought when they spotted the first 40' of this one. While the upper section wanders and is a bit dirtier than most of the other lines on the wall, the hard boulder problem start on unlikely holds and the wild moves in the corner above do a lot to redeem the line.
Follow 3 bolts up a blank face slashed by a wafer-thin rib of quartzite and one
foothold. If you make sense of this puzzle you'll be rewarded with a nice rest below an overhanging corner. Crotch-stretching moves up the stem-box past a few solid pieces and a not-so solid block deposit you at the base of a curving finger crack. The book describes a line up this crack and straight to an anchor we couldn't find.
To avoid travelling through moss on shitty rock, abandon the crack when it veers right and thins out and wander on a left diagonal path to the obvious anchor of Panty Shield/Stay Free
. The book describes this as Utahpia Variation
, it seems to be the only option due to the lack of a dedicated anchor.
Utahpia attacks the steep face between the two monster flakes left of The Thin Thing. Three bolts mark the start.
Lowering from the anchors on the left is annoying but seems to be the only option at this point.
3 bolts on the face, a set of nuts and cams from tiny to BD .75. Again, I'm sure you could find bigger placements (up to #2) if you looked harder than I did.