This classic aid route follows thin face cracks up a beautiful section of the lower Twin Brother formation. There are no ledges above pitch 2. Please be careful with the rock (when cleaning pins, please favor upward blows).
P1 - Start in a left facing corner that turns into a chimney (5.10). P2 - Easy scrambling leads to the base of a smooth wall. 3 bolts can be seen above. P3 - Ascend a blank area, mostly drilled holes & bolts to a hanging belay. P4-9 - Follow a mostly thin crack to the top. The last pitch has some soft rock. This route could go clean. The visitors center has a topo.
Descend by scrambling south to a pine tree. Make 2 190' rappels to the drainage between Twin Brother and East Temple. Descend this (2 raps) to the ground.
Location
This route climbs the lower right side of Twin Brother. 1 mile up from the Y to Mt Carmal junction, hike up a gully to the base of the buttress on the right. See photo of Twin Brothers.
Protection
1-2 beaks; 3-5 KB & LA: 2-4 baby angles; 1-3 larger angles up to 1 1/4". Many micro and offset nuts. 2 sets TCU's up to #3. 2 sets Camalots 1-4, and 1 #5. Hooks including bat hooks, rivit hangers. PLEASE DON'T BRING CAM HOOKS. We didn't bring any.
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