The Pulpit, a great aid and free climb across the parking lot from the entrance to the Narrows. Climb the bolt ladder to a ledge, then climb 5.5 to the first belay point with a pin.
I replaced two bolts on the Aid Ladder because the bolts just pulled out of the wall! Continue up a crack using aid or free climbing at the 5.10 level.
This climb is classic. November was a great month to climb this route. Also, in November the river is down and the route is great to climb in the early evening.
Protection
Take a set of Tricams, work excellent in the crack above the first pitch. Quickdraws.
Location
From The parking lot in the Temple of Sinawava, cross the Virgin River and find the obvious little tower.
Why are there bolts next to the perfect crack on the second pitch? Are those the original Beckey bolts?
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 28, 2006
"Why are there bolts next to the perfect crack on the second pitch?"
I wouldn't probably refer to that crack as "perfect". Kind of a flaring, undulating, somewhat rotten in spots, awkward crack. My bet is that at the time, the FA was trying to protect the upper part of the route without resorting to using really big angle pitons or the like, since cams hadn't been invented yet (1967).
"Are those the original Beckey bolts?"
Methinks Pat Callis placed them. Not sure if Beckey was along for the FA of the pulpit? I think they knocked this off between rain and bad weather whilst waiting to do the Great White Throne. I chatted to Pat after I had climbed it a few years back, and he said the variety of bolts indicates they were still looking for the optimum solution to anchors in the soft white rock of the GWT. His wife said something to the effect of, "are those bolts still there? They looked bad when he placed them." Too funny.
Modern climbing in Zion began in 1967 with the ascent of the Great White Thone via the Northwest Face, the first of Zion's big walls to be climbed. Prior to this ascent, the Park Service had long refused to give permission for climbing the long and steep canyon-side faces. Fred Beckey had gained permission after sending a letter to the park guaranteeing a Seattle based rescue team on call, and particulars of each of the original team member's experience: Warren Harding, Galen Rowell, Eric Bjornstadt, and Fred Beckey. By the time permission had actually been granted, the team changed to Fred Beckey and Galen Rowell and Pat Callis, who spent several days preparing the lower section, and made the first ascent on May 5-7, 1967.
The transition from the slanting ledge at the P1 anchor into the P2 crack is awkward and the crack starts out with poor opportunities for gear. I didn't feel well protected until I got a sling around a small column next to a hole about 10 feet up. The crack quality improves as you go up. The four bolts on P2 seem pretty solid compared to the junky bolts on P1, but the homemade aluminum angle hangers are soft and a bit deformed. One of these P2 bolts has previously broken off. Back up the bolts with solid gear in the crack as best you can.
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