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Mt. Moroni
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg 
Plan B 
Unknown 
Voice from the Dust 

Crack in the Cosmic Egg 

5.10 C2+

   

FA: Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84)
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.10 C2+ [details]
Length: 10 pitches, Grade V
Season: Spring and Fall
Views: 1,103 page views

Submitted By: eric dixon on Apr 8, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Route follows crack system in the center of this s...


Description 

P1 (C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.

P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.

P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.

TOPO 1

TOPO 2


Protection 

(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks


Location 

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.


Descent 

Rap route or descend the back side of Mt. Moroni via a 75' rappel. Downclimb to a canyon, hike up canyon (north) to a pass, descend to Lady Mtn. Trail



Photos of Crack in the Cosmic Egg Slideshow Add Photo
Following the pitch 2 splitter

Following the pitch 2 splitter

Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6

Following the short offwidth section on pitch 6

Kim Miller leading pitch 9

Kim Miller leading pitch 9

P3

P3

The Egg.

The Egg.

Pitch 1. A red alien is key for the crux. A fall will put you on the ground.

Pitch 1. A red alien is key for the crux. A fall w...


Comments on Crack in the Cosmic Egg Add Comment
Show which comments —
By AndrewinLyons
Aug 31, 2008

Here's a couple of links to McNamara's topos. It goes clean.

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/cosmic_egg.jpg

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/MoroniCosmicEgg.j>>>>>

By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Nov 11, 2008

I agree with C2+ for this route. Leave the hammer in the car. Great rock except for a couple of sections.

By EB
From: Idaho
Mar 12, 2009

Great route. The first four pitches are the goods, while the upper pitches are just ok. The mac/ ammon variation to the wormhole looks better although there are some loose blocks on the following pitch. Also be ready for some biz on the last pitch, bring a hook! Pitch five is plush bivy as well. An obscure Zion classic.