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Crack in the Cosmic Egg
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C2+
Avg: 3.3 from 17
votes
Routes in Mt. Moroni
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+ |
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Crack in the Cosmic Egg (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Plan B T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Varco Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Voice from the Dust T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84) |
| Page Views: | 8,755 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Apr 8, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…
Description
P1 (C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.
P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.
P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.
P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.
P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.
P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.
P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.
P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.
P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.
P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.
TOPO 1
TOPO 2
P2 (C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.
P3 (C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.
P4 (C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.
P5 (C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.
P6 (C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.
P7 (5.9) Handcrack to chimney.
P8 (C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.
P9 (5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.
P10 (5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.
TOPO 1
TOPO 2
Protection
(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks
Location
Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.
Photos
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