Start by climbing and easy, protected slab crack, make an exciting 8ft traverse right to the corner. Stem, and Float your way up the corner. One bolt anchor under roof, Back up with a nut for TR'ing
Location
Keep following the trail along the base for another 5 min from "One for the Road" to climbers left.
Protection
Two-Grey TCU, Three-Purple TCU, Two-Blu TCU, sigle-.75-4 camolot...That will SOW it up
There is a 2nd pitch, going out the roof, ..Will go free just need to do it
EDIT: Went out today 5/8/09 and took it over the roof. From the bolt continue unprotected 5.10 stemming to a good jug below the roof, and a good sidepull at the lip of the roof. place a blue alien at the lip, and a orange TCU just over make a hard pull to a finger lock and crank over. 20 more feet of off angle finger crack leads to a 2 bolt anchor. Can TR with single 60m
Did the route as one pitch. Kinda Scary! I definitely didn’t do the right start and almost cratered before getting my first piece... The jug at the roof is super hollow sounding... Didn't/couldn't get gear before pulling the roof(I ran out of small pieces). I Only managed to get a BD .75 about 10 feet above the roof. Very glad I didn’t fall!
NOTE: A BD #4 or 5 is nice for the short offwidth section
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