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East Temple
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10th Division, The 
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion 
Fang Spire 
Lovelace 

Fang Spire 

5.9+ C3

   

FA: Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf 1988
Type: Aid
Consensus: 5.9+ C3 [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 650 feet, Grade IV
Views: 1,311 page views

Submitted By: ErikK on Mar 8, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The Fang Spire is in the center of the photo, it's...


Description 

This is the sugar-capped spire that stands in front of East Temple. This route has some really cool, exposed hooking on solid sandstone and some other creative aid .

There is good topo from bigwall.com.

There is also an updated topo in the visitor center.


Protection 

This route goes all clean; no hammers needed.

  • Two sets of HB offsets or micro nuts
  • Two sets stoppers
  • Three sets of C3s
  • Three sets of C4s #.3 - #.4
  • Two sets of C4s #.5 - #4
  • Two talons
  • One large hook
  • Other assorted hooks
  • Two 60m ropes


Location 

Park at the pull off 1/2mile up on the Mt. Carmel Hwy form the Zion Canyon Rd. and Mt. Carmel Hwy junction. The pull off is on the left just before the bridge.

The Fang Spire is almost directly above the pullout on the left side of East Temple. Basically follow the trail that leads out from the pull off along the river and go directly up to the base. It's a short but steep approach.



Photos of Fang Spire Slideshow Add Photo
P1 is the crack in the center of the light colored rock that trends left.  Cruiser C1.

BETA PHOTO: P1 is the crack in the center of the light colored...

Ahhhh the summit, This is a really cool ledge, it would be a sweet spot to bivy.

BETA PHOTO: Ahhhh the summit, This is a really cool ledge, it ...

Hook Placement

Hook Placement

TDA on the first pitch

TDA on the first pitch

Shayne Durfee in the business

Shayne Durfee in the business

D-N-A on the summit.

D-N-A on the summit.

Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbender on the Fang Spire on 10/24/09. Taken from the Cragmont trail.

Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbender on the Fang ...

Closer shot of Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbender on the Fang Spire, 10/24/09.

Closer shot of Heidi Gledhill and Derrick Fassbend...


Comments on Fang Spire Add Comment
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By Bill Bones
From: Somwheres in ooohtaaa
Apr 1, 2008

One of the best non trade routes in Zion. The artificial Aid is a bit lame "just to keep the grade harder" but good none the less. Cool top out. It's missing a summit register:( 2 sky hooks and 2 talons will do you just right unless you want to bring a rack of both for placements.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Feb 20, 2009

Topo