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Cerberus Gendarme
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Cave Route 

5.7

   
2 people found this page useful

FA: Jim Dunn
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 1,690 page views

Submitted By: Eric Delynko on Jan 21, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Cave Route from the base. The route follows the l...


Description 

Route furthest to the left on Gendarme. Starts off as an awkward face climb, protectable with the large crack. Some mantles and edges lead to a beautiful hand crack in a dihedral. Another mantle leads to chains and a cave. This route can also be top-roped by walking through the cave from behind the formation.


Protection 

Big stuff (#4, #3 BD cams) to start and a couple #2s for the hand crack. Something small can be useful at the top. Chain anchors.



Photos of Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Runout if you don't have a #4

Runout if you don't have a #4


Comments on Cave Route Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Bobby Hanson
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 11, 2006

The flakes to the right offer a nice variation (5.8ish) to the start.

By George Vigeon
From: Park City, UT
Jun 6, 2008

Kinda goofy but fun. A Camalot 4 for the first pod is optional and after that #2, 3, .75, and a .4 right before the chains. Rap the route or walk off into the cave, part of the charm of the route.

By D's Nutz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2008

I agree the #4 is optional but you will need to run out about 15-17' before you place your first piece.

By TP in SLC
Mar 9, 2009

If you watch the Eiger Sanction Mr. Eastwood climbs this crack in the movie, it's a clip they cut to a couple times randomly.

By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Aug 6, 2009

this route rules. Don't overlook the second pitch. one of the only 5.8 roofs in Zion! also, an alternate start to Mean High Tide. Clint Eastwood rules.