Any climber who has driven through the main canyon has seen and wondered about this climb. It took me almost 2 years to go and do it but really worth it. But you do have to LOVE ofwidth.
P1: 5.9 60ft This pitch gives the meaning of "Zion Funky" Really weird moves thrown in with "Chalkstone O' Death" on questionable rock. The chalkstone is actually somewhat solid. 2 bolt anchor at the lip.
P2: The Goods 5.10+ 130ft Exit the belay and Climb in your face fist and off hands to a squeeze. From here you can reach left and clip a bolt or skip it and go through a few weird pods to a 2 Bolt hanging belay.
P3: 5.9+ 60ft continue up the crack which turn into a well protected flaring squeeze, on frail varnished rock. Quickly turns into a tight hands roof with a crazy fun exposed move turning the lip. Varied splitter climbing on odd but good rock leads to a ledge with a anchor.
Decent: Walk / Bush wack 200 yards to climbers left and rap a fixed line in the gully. If you don't want to rap the fixed line 2 Single rope raps (off the good anchors for the fixed line) lead to the ground
Location
The "OTHER SIDE" of angles landing.
Walk the Angles Landing trail until the first switch back. Break through the initial scrub oak to a well defined deer trail heading directly torward the climb. After 5 min head down a big sandy hill and cross a creek to a grassy field. Veer right torward the base of the climb before the hillside while looking for a cairn lined trail on the left. This will lead to the base of the decent and fixed line. walk the base right to the climb. 25min car to climb
Protection
Whole roll of tape and a old long sleeve shirt. I dare you to climb it with out that
Single 60m rope
Single set yellow TCU - 4.5 Camolot Doubles #2camolot Triples #3camolot #3.5camolot Doubles #4.5
Nice! Pete VanSlooten and I started on that line in 1997 on Petes 21st B-day (we partied at the Ranchero 101 in Virgin w/ swill and pizza that night) , and got just past the 1st pitch belay ( bailed on "skippable bolt", we didn't have enough wide cams to leave). Troy D Anderson and I came back in 1998 and pushed it to the top. Although we were told we bastardized an old route a couple years after, we gave it the name RootDown, Check out those hangers. Troys Dad worked at a certain government facility, who had access to that same aircraft aluminum that Ushba was using. Sweet custom hangers for college dirt bags. I won't forget TDA jugging that 2nd pitch in flip flops. So sorry IF we added anchors to an old route. Thought this story might be an interesting side note for the route.
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