North East Face, Regular Route 

FA:  ? 1960's Type:  Trad, Ice, Snow Consensus:  5.6 WI2 [details] Length:  5 pitches, 3100 feet, Grade IV Season:  Winter, early Spring Views: 527 page views Submitted By: bsmoot on Jan 10, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Jonathan Smoot in the upper gully.

Description 

This was a popular alpine jaunt in the 70's for aspiring alpinists . The climbing is quite moderate, and if you're confident you won't need to rope up much. If you climb this in the dead of winter, plan on a FULL DAY, because of deep snow in places. If you can time it during a cold spell in early Spring, you'll be front-pointing up the frozen snow, then you could summit by noon...these are ideal conditions and the climbing is CLASSIC!

From Stairs gulch, ascend steep snow gullies, mixed with ice and rock for 2,500' to a notch leading to the upper face. Ascend the face for 5 or 6 pitches to the summit (9,524'). If you're not tired yet, you can follow the S.E. Ridge to the summit of Twin Peaks.

Warning: Beware of avalanche danger form Stairs Gulch

Location 

Ascends mostly steep snow couloirs left of the prominent right facing corner high on the face. Begin by hiking up Stairs Gulch. Follow gullies and the face near the top to the summit. Descend from the top by hiking South East a bit and then down a steep gully into Stairs Gulch.

Protection 

Small rack, runners, 1 screw.

Add Photo Photos of North East Face, Regular Route

Traversing to the upper face.

Looking down on the upper face from near the summi...