Perin Blanchard arriving at the short, shallow dih...
Description
In a location with amazing views and a feeling of great exposure, climb 135 feet through several distinct layers of limestone including several small roofs. Big holds, little holds, and at least one pocket (right where you want it, too). Climb it in one long pitch, or split it up into two pitches.
Start on a small, ugly pedestal and climb through some rough, gray limestone. At a broken ledge the rock changes to brown and gets a bit smoother. Climb up through a short, smooth dihedral onto a sloping ledge with chain anchors. Belay here, or continue up if climbing the line as a single pitch.
Head up and left through a lighter-colored, harder layer of rock that looks almost like marble in places. Arrive at a light gray layer with small holds and work your way through the intimidating, slightly overhanging terrain and over the first small roof.
Continue up a short section of darker gray, lower-angled rock, pull two more roofs on large holds, and arrive at the chains.
Lower off to the midpoint anchors, pull the rope, thread the rope again, and lower the rest of the way.
Location
Located to the right of the brown water streak that splits Tatooine, this route is the second line of bolts to the right of the water streak and starts on a small pedestal between two somewhat-worse-for-the-wear bushes. The hangers are powder-coated dark gray.
The line climbs to the left of the enormous double roofs.
Protection
Single pitch: 17 bolts, not including the midpoint anchors. Two pitches: 9 bolts and 8 bolts, plus something for the anchors.
By John Ross From: Spanish Fork, UT May 10, 2009 rating: 5.10a
A fine line that keeps on giving. Starts with a long stretch of fun 5.7 climbing to a distinct crux. Some stemming helps keep the crux .10a and gets you to the chains. Four star quality climbing continues as you pull the roofs using huge holds, with so much exposure below. The views of the canyon and valley are a free bonus.
Props to everyone who helped make the awesome trail to get up here.
We just visited this area and it was lots of fun. The climbs will be constantly changing for a while, since hand and footholds tend to break off occasionally. We couldn't really figure out the start to Leia's Leash. Where is it in relation to This is not a Lightsaber?
Thanks for all the hard work to put in the trail and put up the routes.
Great climb, at least up to the first anchor. That's where I stopped. It's pretty easy up the well protected crux at the top. I'll have to come back and do the whole thing.
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Nov 3, 2009 rating: 5.10b
This is high alpine climbing at its best. Simply just fun with committing moves and crazy exposure. I want to get high all over again. The ending roofs to a pocket is exhilerating.
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