An exciting, very enjoyable three-pitch route that ascends a quartzite buttress on the north side of Rock Canyon. The route starts on the typically broken and crumbly light-colored rock above the layer of Mineral Fork Tillite, but continues on solid, good quality quartzite for the second and third pitches. In fact, on the third pitch the rock is quite interesting with obviously ancient, well-weathered quartzite with rounded edges interspersed with sections with sharp edges from more recent erosive events.
P1 (5.10a, 70') Starts on the crumbly, shattered, white quartzite with a mildly tricky move past the first bolt and then big jugs on slightly overhanging to not-quite-vertical rock to a ledge at a midpoint anchor (the fifth bolt). The rock looks suspect, but is actually surprisingly solid. Continues past the midpoint anchor through two more bolts on lower-angled terrain to a red-colored hangers-and-rings anchor on a ledge.
P2 (5. 10c?, 60') Start twenty feet right of the top of the first pitch under a sloping roof with a couple of rounded, undercut tiers. The bolts are painted black. Getting off the ground, clipping and getting past the first two bolts is the crux with poor feet, sloping sidepulls, a couple of sucker pockets, and some hidden jugs. However, even after getting above the second bolt it isn't over. The move past the third bolt is also difficult (at least if you are of average height) but not nearly as difficult as the start. After the third bolt continue on solid, quality quartzite to a ledge with a hangers-and-rings anchor.
P3 (5.10a, 60') Head up to the left of the anchors on a thought-provoking, but juggy and solid overhang to the first bolt. Continue on mostly jugs on interesting, solid, reddish quartzite to a point under a roof. The move to get to the bolt just underneath the roof is committing but solid. Continue over the roof and up to another small overhang just before the top. The anchors are just over the top.
Protection
P1 7 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors. There is also a midpoint anchor at bolt 5. P2 7 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors. P3 9 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.
Location
This route starts on the southwest facing part of the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl. Approach the main part of Bad Bananas (below the huge roof) and continue west on a trail below the exposed Mineral Fork Tillite (the greenish-gray-brown rock). After turning the corner head up hill along the base of the tillite and scramble up a short, tillite ramp to the base of the climb.
Descent
Three single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you to the base. You can leave your packs, etc., at the base of the approach ramp since the last rappel can take you below the approach ramp if you choose.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Mar 24, 2008
Darren told me he thought the three pitches went at .10a, .10c, and .10a. My partner and I both thought the start of the second pitch was quite a bit harder than .10c (neither of us got it clean), but it's possible we just didn't find the "trick".
Darren originally thought the second pitch start would go at .12 something, but said he and his partner found a heel-hook and pocket that made it much easier. I tried various heel hooks but none of them worked for me.
My partner finally made it to the second bolt and clipped it, and then led the rest of the pitch. I didn't even manage the start clean while following, but now that I know where certain holds are I think I probably will be able to get it clean next time. However, unless I'm really missing something, I think it's harder than .10c (but keep in mind that I'm a weak and pitiful climber). Ask Darren at MountainWorks for the beta.
By John Ross From: Spanish Fork, UT Mar 24, 2008 rating: 5.10c
What a fun, challenging, multi-pitch route! The upper two pitches are the best.
P1 - A little loose, but still good climbing.
P2 - There is some excitement getting from the first to the second bolt, especially with all that air beneath you! It took all the power I could muster, but I'm not that strong. The business isn't over though so don't get too pumped! Shake out and look for good edges to be found with some cool moves.
P3 - The exposure is stellar, and the climbing is a blast. The crux is probably just below and getting over the small roof close to the top.
What a kick!!!
By Jeff Jones From: Elk Ridge, UT Oct 24, 2008 rating: 5.10c/d
Stellar. What more is there to say? Everyone should do this.
P1 - Dirty but nothing pulled off. When I go up there next time (and there definitely will be a next time), I will try and reserve some time to do some additional clean up. The opening moves are a little tricky but straightforward easy climbing from there.
P2 - I got the beta from DK but still could not do it the way he said. Kip figured out a way but it involved a crappy match which was pretty hard to do. I would like to get up there again and try a figure a better way or try out the more ways to implement the beta. We might have made the move a little harder than it needed to be but I didn't think it was any harder than .10d (but I am terrible at suggesting ratings).
P3 - Since my endurance is crap right now, I started getting a little desperate at the top where it gets steeper. The exposure is awesome! I found a rest but then realized that I had to move back right to where the bolt was. Big jugs the rest of the way.
One of the great parts about this climb was the belay stations were great!
Amazing line. If you are going to do one multipitch climb in Rock Canyon, this is it. Super clean and amazing holds. I thought the 5.10 c/d rating was accurate, the climbing is a bit sustained on the 2nd pitch and the top of the 3rd though.
Nice work Darren! Very fun climbing. Thanks for the gem.
Thought 10c seemed hard for a onsight grade. The 2nd pitch is the $. Didn't find any heel hooks but managed to lurp my way through. The last 20 feet you won't forget. DO IT!!
I finally got back and did this cleanly. I still didn't find Darren's mythical heel hook, but the way I managed it did seem mid-to-hard-10-ish (although it required a dynamic move—if I miss, I fall).
However, if you don't know where the holds are (and the key one for me isn't visible from the ground), .10c will seem like a cruel joke.
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