The huge, white, chossy-looking wall on your left as you enter the canyon. There are some absolutely "blow your mind" amazing routes up there if you've got the balls for 'em. The huge roof in the middle has several lines around it. There are some really old chossy routes and some pretty new sport lines up to 4 pitches.
Getting There
Easy to see from the parking lot.
From the parking lot start on the paved path. Take the left fork and cross the streambed (or stream, in the Spring). Pass the round water tank on your left and take a path that angles uphill and right a bit.
Follow the path (avoiding the talus on your left) to the base of the light-colored wall directly above (The Jobsite). Turn left (west) and head directly across the talus to some trees at the base of an overhanging, brown formation. Continue uphill and cross a small gully.
Continue west until you turn a corner and head uphill on some brown, sharp rock (Mineral Fork Tillite). Follow the faint trail west and uphill that appears when you leave the tillite. This trail deposits you at the left side of the Super Bowl roof. Continue west a bit to Bad Bananas.
This 3 pitch climb goes directly up the buttress pulling over bulges and steep faces. The climbing is quite varied and adventurous. The belays are bolted at good stances and the rock quality is quite good. *Pitch 1; 5.9+ 30 meters. Climb past 12 bolts to double ring anchors at stance in a nice alcove making sure to runner some of the bolts to avoid rope drag.*Pitch 2; 5.8 33 meters. Climb past 6 bolts to a steep slot where y...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
It's incredible to see just how many quality routes this wall now holds. I remember hearing nothing but terrible things about this wall when I first moved to Utah, and now look at it.
Jarom Feriante and I bolted an 80 foot line that hasn't yet been sent:
Description
"Vitamin P" starts at "Oscar the Grouch" chains; up to the left under a small roof. I estimate it at 11d to 12b. At far as I know, no one has the official FA on since Jarom and I bolted it. It is very exposed and not a lot of large holds.
Location
Climb "Oscar the Grouch" 5.10d. "Vitamin P" starts on the bolts to the left.
Protection
Bolts, with a 3 chain anchor. Be careful on the rap down, its a long one. There maybe some loose rock, so consider a helmet.