Redneck Genocide 5.11b
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BETA PHOTO: Bug Barn Dance Wall.
1 Squid Orgy 5.11a
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Description Both this route and Necrobeastiality, are two of the absolute best .11b's in the whole canyon! One thought provoking part. Bring it!
Protection Bolts
Location Fifth bolted line from the left, directly right of the two shorter routes on the wall.
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By Bad Sock Puppet
From: Utah
Aug 23, 2008
rating: 5.11c
| Crimp Fest! This route runs smooth for the first few bolts then all of a sudden you hit the crux hard. Very tiny feet (although the rock has great friction)and blind throws to small crimps through crux. Take a small break on a ledge before pumping through another hard spot to chains. I can see how MOST of the route is 5.11b or easier, but the concensus, from the four of us who climbed it, was that the crux was more like a 5.11c. Of course it could have just been the fact that my feet were cooking inside my shoes on the 150 degree rock. |
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