BETA PHOTO: General location of Lord of the Slings.
Description
Lord of the Slings provides the easiest way to the top of Trilogy Buttress. After the ascent up the scree you are rewarded with increasingly awesome views of the canyon and valley. This is a must do route for any serious Rock Canyon climber.
Pitch 1: The original start begins on the south face of the base of the first buttress. There are 4 to 5 bolts scattered along this 180' of moderate (5.6) climbing. You might want to bring some protection if runouts bother you, but be prepared for massive rope drag if you do. Another option is to split this pitch into two by adding some gear to a blot found on a large ledge about halfway up. Bolt anchors protect the belay at the top. Move across the sandy ridge to the start of the next pitch.
Pitch 2: Belay from the base of the cliff where you can anchor into a bolt. Either go directly up the face to a small ledge, or move left on 4th class to gain the ledge. 80 feet of quality climbing past 7-8 bolts. Bolt anchors at the top. 5.9.
Pitch 3: Belay across the exposed ridge to the start of the next pitch. Look for the second set of bolts from the left. Go up 70 feet past ~6 bolts to double bolt anchors on a small ledge. 5.9+
Pitch 4: Continue up another 100 feet to the summit. ~10 bolts on 5.9+.
You can combine 3 & 4 if you use long runners on the first few bolts and have enough strength to swing through the overhanging sections.
Location
Walk 10 minutes from the parking lot watching the north side of the canyon. After the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl Wall you will see Trilogy appearing up the scree slope directly to the east. Trilogyis identifiable because of its three distinct faces.
Protection
Bolted with some optional gear on the first pitch. All pitches have bolted anchors. Bring lots of long runners.
By Nich Cloward From: Orem Aug 25, 2009 rating: 5.9
Fun route. The first pitch is pretty spaced out, so extra protection is a good idea, although it is only 5.5-5.6 climbing, lots of ledges and positive holds. I didn't use anything extra, but long draws are a good idea. Doing the unnamed routes on the west face would be a funner, better way to go. Spacey first two bolts on the second pitch. The first bolt at practically at your feet, probably more for anchoring the belay, and the next one is off to the right a ways. A fall there before clipping that bolt would be. . .bad. pretty consistent 5.8 (in my opinion) after that to the anchor bolts. Pitch three didn't seem like it's own pitch, more like part of pitch four. Pitch four was the best part of the whole thing. Consistent holds. fun bulges to get past. I'd give it a 5.9, not a +. + for the fun and where it all was, but not for difficulty. Very exposed, so that added some good fun to it all. Very cool route. Would love to do it again, but start from the unnamed routes.
I loved this route. We used the alternate first pitch that is to the left of the 5.6 standard. Good stuff. The exposure is fun on the third pitch. Great views up the canyon from the top. The route was easy to follow and the belay ledges are huge with superb anchors.
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