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Red Slab
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Desperado 
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Leave It To Beaver 
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Red Red Whine 
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Ridge 

Leave It To Beaver 

5.8

   

FA: Jeff Pedersen
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 335 page views

Submitted By: Ryan Brough on May 30, 2006


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Description 

Easy climbing to the first bolt. The crux is in the middle section, just after the fixed protection lets up. This route is mostly 5.6 with an occasional 5.7 and 5.8 move. Good for learning to set trad, as the climbing above the fixed protection is the most difficult.


Location 

This route is the furthest to the south. It shares the start of Red Dwarf, but traverses to the right before heading up.


Protection 

There are two flakes on the way to the only two bolts on the route. After the bolts, there are several nut placements. There are two sets of chains to choose from at the top.



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By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
May 5, 2009

Did this today in its original style, which involves skipping the first bolt of Red Dwarf which was not there when this route was established. Super fun face climbing and stellar pro when you can get it in. Also you finish a little further right than what is listed on the topo. I think I will replace the routes single bolt, which sticks out a half an inch.

By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
Nov 1, 2009

I forgot to post this back in July, but I replaced the manky old bolt on this route with a big fatty stainless. Enjoy!

P.S. I found out that this bolt was the first bolt placed by Jeff Pedersen, who also made the FA.