Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Appendage
Show routes:
Select route...
Bulge, The 
Butterface 
Crisco Crack 
Edge, The 
Full Appendage 
Lead 
Ledge, The 
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge 

The Bulge 

5.11b

   

FA: Knezek
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 707 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 17, 2005


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

The bulge


Description 

The right line on the right set of anchors. 6 bolts that will pull at your tendons. Very fun route, very pumpy. Length wasn't too bad, but what hurt this route is that you can use the right wall, in fact, it is a pain in the a$$ to not use that right wall, but that right wall hurts (lessens) the climb. The finish is also weird, with a very painful (sliced into my finger, painful) crack hold at the 6th bolt.


Protection 

6 bolts on the way to the chains.



Photos of The Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
Almost done

Almost done

One of my favorite climbs in Rock Canyon. Its a must climb for anyone looking for a great challenge.

One of my favorite climbs in Rock Canyon. Its a mu...


Comments on The Bulge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 13, 2005

i dont get what you mean by "right wall". Stemming is off on this route.

By rx_7addict
Oct 26, 2005
rating: 5.11b

Anon was right. The route was established based on the side wall not being included. Climb straight up the bulge.

By Nathan Fisher
Oct 26, 2005

I wasn't too clear. What I was trying to say, was that it is hard to not use that wall during the beginning sequence. The angles force you to the right and it is actually more difficult to try to keep off of that wall, than it is to climb it. When I look at a cliff, I climb it with what I have at my disposal. It is not "natural" to say, "Don't use that wall, don't stem, or ignore every third handhold." Here is the cliff climb it. I understand that Darren's "line" is to not use it, but it just isn't natural.

By EricAllen
From: Utah / Nevada
Feb 9, 2006
rating: 5.11b

The Bulge is a great route. Short, powerful, well-protected, and fun. To each his own I guess.

Eric

By kip henrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 27, 2007
rating: 5.11c

hardest 11b i've ever done. i got it gasping at the top with streaming beta from my partner. man this thing is technical and requires some wide moves. the top 3 bolts is all the business. absolute must do. using the right wall for stemming is definitely off.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Aug 11, 2008

I think this is a super classic route. Big moves, big holds, big grunting noises as you try not to peel off... Fun!

By darrell hodges
From: elk ridge utah
Oct 21, 2008

I'm going to do this route and put my foot on the wall to the right the whole way up.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

I sneezed on the right wall...am I still ok?

By Brian Koralewski
From: Orem, UT
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b

Full beta warning: The crux is the last 5 moves. Although, the 1st move is pretty hard too. Both hands on the low right jug, swing up to the crimper with left hand. Launch to the Jugs on the right arete. Kind of hug the arete with your foot/leg for a few moves, then when it gets steep, you throw to the left arete where there are 2 positive holds. Be careful on lead here- My wife's cousin hurt his ankle badly while at this spot. For me, the next part is the crux, getting into that crack. It can be sharp in places. Get your feet up high and go up & right to the top edge of the bulge. There is a good hold about 2 feet over the top of the edge, but it's a beast to do this after all that climbing.