This is the right line on the left set of anchors. Fun jams and good positions will get you to the present first bolt, which will clip with some muscle. Swing out onto the west face and clip the last bolt and head for the chains.
Again, too short for more than 1 star but better than Lead.
Having led this route several times now I have a hard time understanding the 5.9 rating. Either it is contrived (only climb to the left on the face) or it is way overrated. If you use the holds on the right and then transition over to the left for the last bolt around the arete the route is super easy and you are never more than an arms reach from a bolt. I would suggest 5.7. Am I missing something here?
It was originally rated 5.9, but a huge bulge feature you had to pull over became loose. I went up with a crowbar and now that feature is on the ground. The route became considerably easier and in the new RC guidebook will be 5.7.
When I climb this I don't touch the wall on the right. If you are wanting closer to a 9 feel, I suggest doing this, otherwise it's definitely closer to a 7.
I am trying to figure out why there are bolts six inches from an easy to protect crack? I climbed it and placed bomber gear all the way up the crack...
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Jul 17, 2009
The explanation involves two seriously injured climbers and threats from local law enforcement. Ask Darren if you truly want to know.
If you're referring to the anchors between The Edge and Only Wimps Toprope the Bulge, they're for the obvious trad line/chimney thing between those two routes. It's 5.3 or 5.5 or something. I don't remember. Something easy. The trad lines on The Appendage are all pretty fun and worth doing.
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