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Green Monster Slab
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Erase Your Face 
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Green Monster 
Green Monster Aid Crack 
Pure Thoughts 

Green Monster 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 2,122 page views

Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Nov 14, 2004


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Jan on lead just at the crux of the route.


Description 

A must do route for Rock Canyon. Easy approach, sustained difficulty, and good rock all make for an enjoyable climb.

Green Monster is the obvious larger crack up the right side of the slab.

The crack is filled with tasty holds if you prefer to venture in, or if you don't like you put your arm in the mouth of the monster, you can smear the slab and lie back the cracks lip.


Protection 

Camalots 1 through 4, mostly size 2. We placed 9 pieces. Secure, two-bolt chains at the top.

Three #2, two #3, two #4, and a handful of smaller sized gear to supplement. You could also use large (hand size) hexes to easily protect the last 20 feet. Save the #3s and #4s for once the crack starts trending left.



Photos of Green Monster Slideshow Add Photo
Major routes on the Green Monster

BETA PHOTO: Major routes on the Green Monster

Showing the approach to Green Monster looking due South

BETA PHOTO: Showing the approach to Green Monster looking due ...

Why have three points of contact when you can balance on two?

Why have three points of contact when you can bala...

Glen Kaplan taking lessons from the FREAK monster!

Glen Kaplan taking lessons from the FREAK monster!

Racing the sunset

Racing the sunset

Andrew Stireman in the shade

Andrew Stireman in the shade


Comments on Green Monster Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2009
By Lee Jensen
Nov 15, 2004

If you want to top rope Green Monster then follow the gully up past Tinker Toys and scramble up the rocks to the top of the Green Monster slab.

By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Jul 17, 2005
rating: 5.9

This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach.

By Chuck
From: Fairbanks, AK
Apr 24, 2006
rating: 5.9

I climbed it with a double set of hexes. I wish I had a few larger pieces. The route is great.

By Bad Sock Puppet
From: With the climbing Gods
Jun 22, 2008
rating: 5.9

Awesome climb; Solid 5.9. Crack is extremely solid with fist jams most the way up and some good lie-back near the top. Used mostly Camelot #2 and #3 saving your bigger gear for the top. Used hexes on the lower stuff. Placement of chains allows for easy top-rope. A few runners around the middle will help reduce drag. A must do for those who like to hit up the cracks.

By Skyler Penrod
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.9

Finally bagged this one. I used a 2.5F(Friend),2F,3F,3.5F,#6 Nut,4F,4F,4BD,3.5F. The top was a little run out but not bad. A must do trad line in the canyon.

By tenesmus
Oct 25, 2008

This is the Goodro's of Rock Canyon only probably a better pure crack line. How many people have learned to climb on this chunk of rock?

By Mark Goodro
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.9

While the comparison of quality is pretty fair, this is a comfortable slab compared to the slight overhang of Goodro's Wall. I used Powercam #6-8 and BD C4 #1-2 in the first half, leap-frogged a couple #3 C4s for a while, slid a #4 for a bit, then finally ran out the last 20 feet on a couple marginal TCUs. I second the recommendation of two #3 and two #4 C4s. A third #3 wouldn't hurt.

By Nich Cloward
From: Orem
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.9

I've only ever top roped this climb, but I've climbed this route more than anything else. I love this climb. It's a great, long crack letting you lean on it, or jamb into the crack. It's much funner to lean though. Fun hike approach with a rappel to start, if you like to go that way (I do), and a rappel out. Classic, and a favorite.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Aug 13, 2009

I don't know how many hundreds of climbs I've done in Rock Canyon, but I actually hadn't led this one until this morning. I toproped it probably 5 or 6 years ago and remember thinking "Man, this is hard!" I laybacked up the whole thing. Well, 5 or 6 years (and lots of jamming experience) later, this thing is freaking SWEET! It gets my vote for the single best trad line in the canyon. I placed 7 pieces from #1 Camalot to #4 Camalot. Super classic.

By Christopher Miller
From: provo
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9

I did this climb yesterday as my first real trad line! i had a blast, the crack is no joke, it will eat your whole arm up!

By Nich Cloward
From: Orem
Sep 3, 2009
rating: 5.9

One day I'll do it on trad gear. Until then this is still my favorite climb, even though I only top rope it. Maybe, Tristan, this would be a good one for me to learn trad on because I'm so familiar with it.