A must do route for Rock Canyon. Easy approach, sustained difficulty, and good rock all make for an enjoyable climb.
Green Monster is the obvious larger crack up the right side of the slab.
The crack is filled with tasty holds if you prefer to venture in, or if you don't like you put your arm in the mouth of the monster, you can smear the slab and lie back the cracks lip.
Protection
Camalots 1 through 4, mostly size 2. We placed 9 pieces. Secure, two-bolt chains at the top.
Three #2, two #3, two #4, and a handful of smaller sized gear to supplement. You could also use large (hand size) hexes to easily protect the last 20 feet. Save the #3s and #4s for once the crack starts trending left.
If you want to top rope Green Monster then follow the gully up past Tinker Toys and scramble up the rocks to the top of the Green Monster slab.
By Jason Billings From: Draper, UT Jul 17, 2005 rating: 5.9
This is a great climb, a not to be missed in the canyon. The crack is consistent offer great jams. Rappel anchors have be added at the bottom of Dihedral, so you can rappel instead of downclimbing the 5.4 scramble approach.
By Chuck From: Fairbanks, AK Apr 24, 2006 rating: 5.9
I climbed it with a double set of hexes. I wish I had a few larger pieces. The route is great.
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Jun 22, 2008 rating: 5.9
Awesome climb; Solid 5.9. Crack is extremely solid with fist jams most the way up and some good lie-back near the top. Used mostly Camelot #2 and #3 saving your bigger gear for the top. Used hexes on the lower stuff. Placement of chains allows for easy top-rope. A few runners around the middle will help reduce drag. A must do for those who like to hit up the cracks.
Finally bagged this one. I used a 2.5F(Friend),2F,3F,3.5F,#6 Nut,4F,4F,4BD,3.5F. The top was a little run out but not bad. A must do trad line in the canyon.
This is the Goodro's of Rock Canyon only probably a better pure crack line. How many people have learned to climb on this chunk of rock?
By Mark Goodro From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Jun 12, 2009 rating: 5.9
While the comparison of quality is pretty fair, this is a comfortable slab compared to the slight overhang of Goodro's Wall. I used Powercam #6-8 and BD C4 #1-2 in the first half, leap-frogged a couple #3 C4s for a while, slid a #4 for a bit, then finally ran out the last 20 feet on a couple marginal TCUs. I second the recommendation of two #3 and two #4 C4s. A third #3 wouldn't hurt.
By Nich Cloward From: Orem Jul 22, 2009 rating: 5.9
I've only ever top roped this climb, but I've climbed this route more than anything else. I love this climb. It's a great, long crack letting you lean on it, or jamb into the crack. It's much funner to lean though. Fun hike approach with a rappel to start, if you like to go that way (I do), and a rappel out. Classic, and a favorite.
I don't know how many hundreds of climbs I've done in Rock Canyon, but I actually hadn't led this one until this morning. I toproped it probably 5 or 6 years ago and remember thinking "Man, this is hard!" I laybacked up the whole thing. Well, 5 or 6 years (and lots of jamming experience) later, this thing is freaking SWEET! It gets my vote for the single best trad line in the canyon. I placed 7 pieces from #1 Camalot to #4 Camalot. Super classic.
I did this climb yesterday as my first real trad line! i had a blast, the crack is no joke, it will eat your whole arm up!
By Nich Cloward From: Orem Sep 3, 2009 rating: 5.9
One day I'll do it on trad gear. Until then this is still my favorite climb, even though I only top rope it. Maybe, Tristan, this would be a good one for me to learn trad on because I'm so familiar with it.