Brett Anderson belayed by Tristan Higbee on Itchy ...
Description
Drytool up the rock just left of the ice (M2/3ish), past 2 or 3 bolts (there are 3 bolts there, but sometimes the top one is covered in ice) and then traverse right onto the ice to finish on Pipe Dream left side.
A good intro to ice and/or mixed climbing.
Some call this area Pipe Dream (all of the water comes from a big ol' pipe a few hundred feet up), and others (the Wasatch mixed climbing guide) call it the Kitty Litter Wall.
Location
The area where this route is located is alternately called the Kitty Litter Wall and the Pipe Dream wall.
To get to the wall, park in the west parking lot of Canyon Glen Park, near the (incredibly nice) public toilet. The ice is visible from the parking lot. Walk west along a paved footpath until you see a bridge. Cross the bridge and continue to walk west. After a minute or two, you should be able to barely see the top of some ice over the trees. Turn right (north) off the trail (past some new “No Trespassing” signs) and make your way to the wall.
Just left of the pure ice line Pipe Dream on the left side of the ice wall. Two or three bolts (depending on how much ice there is) should be visible.
Protection
3 bolts, a few screws. There are some old chains and bolts near the top, but they're hard to find if there's a lot of snow.
(I also posted this on the Pipe Dream page) Also sometime in early January, Christian Burrell, Brett Anderson, and myself climbed another two pitches on top of this route. We're not sure if the upper two pitches had been climbed before (probably has). Brett led the first pitch, I led the second, and Christian led the third. Each pitch is easier than the one preceding it.
PITCH 2 From the top of Itchy and Scratchy or Pipe Dream, walk north over a (sometimes) frozen stream to a small, 20-foot high WI2-3 ice pillar. Sink in a couple screws above that to belay from.
PITCH 3 Climb the very low-angled, very easy (but relatively thin--Brett bent one of his picks on the rock underneath) WI2 ice up to the base of the cement wall/pipeline. Use screws to belay from. There is a square shaped hole in the wall that all of the water that forms these climbs come from.
DESCENT We just traversed off to the left and didn't need to rappel.
This is probably the easiest multipitch ice climb in the canyon.
A VERY cold weekend actually got the whole thing to freeze up. We were tempted to climb all the way up into the hole itself. If you want an easy first multi-pitch ice route, this is it. The second pitch starts a bit back and right of the lower wall. A short but really fun step leads to an ice slab. Belay at a ledge. The third pitch is so low angle that I was almost walking. You can stop right at the wall. We were able to carfully walk off to the west.
The ice in that area has been climbed for years...It is a great area with fun intro to ice opportunities. there have been smears form down canyon in the limestone that have been climbed as well.
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