North Creek Canyon is entirely located within the Mount Nebo Wilderness. Wilderness rules apply (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
We struggled with the associated elements of an onerous and persistent west wind (Zephyr) while cleaning and equipping this climb. We believe this to be the first bolted rock climb in North Creek Canyon. Founded in Boulder Colorado, Zephyr was also a favorite rock band back a few years. They toured all over the west.
An enjoyable well protected multi-pitch limestone southwest facing bolted climb. Features include thin face, off width, and topping out through an improbable and outstanding sustained and overhanging roof which allows passage via a surprisingly moderate rating. When approaching, aim for a unique tilting pillar like formation on the first continuous and striking band of limestone on the left canyon walls.
Pitch #1: To the right of a right facing corner of the tilting pillar, climb a hand crack to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 25m, 9 bolts.
Pitch #2: An off width crack continues straight up the right facing corner and then pass some steps to a three-bolt belay ledge. 5.10a, 12m, 5 bolts.
Pitch #3: Interesting face climbing with a dyno move for spice passing a small roof to the left and on to a two-bolt belay ledge next to an odd spike of rock ("The arch-nemesis"). 5.9, 20m, 7 bolts.
Pitch #4: Climb the compact bulgy rock utilizing the spike for convenient foot holds. Continue up the blunt arete to a magnificent flat, though sloping two-bolt belay ledge. 5.7, 17m, 5 bolts.
Pitch #5: The technical and airy pitch of Zephyr sends the exciting roof...stuff those fingers in those lockers to a two-bolt belay ledge. 5.10c, 15m, 6 bolts.
Rappel the route.
Location
Hike up North Creek Canyon as for the winter ice climb Frozen Assets. Find this south west facing route on the opposite side of the canyon on the left. The wide limestone band of rock with Zephyr belongs to Peak 8524. Ascend the scree slope/gully directly below the limestone spur. With a combination of linking the adjacent ridges and scree gullies, the approach (which may seem somewhat arduous) requires at least 30 minutes. On returning to the canyon floor, perhaps only 10 minutes may be required.
An obvious landmark is a huge white topped boulder located in the correct scree gully (numerous exist) about at the half way mark.
Rappel the route.
Protection
All bolts. QDs for 9 bolts. 1 x 50m or 60m rope is sufficient even if linking some pitches.
nice work, gentlemen! james, it was great running into you the other day; mike, i'm glad to see that you were able to take advantage of your time off! s
Driving Directions: Take the Mona exit on I-15 and head into town (away from the mountain), make a right on the main drag, and another right onto the quarry road that goes back under the interstate. Take the right hand fork at the quarry, and on the road further up. Park at the metal posts.
Cross the river (flip flops handy), and head up the talus gully directly below the climb. Following the sides of the rock spurs makes it easier. There is a giant white boulder 3/4 way up. The approach takes 30-45min up, and about 10min down.
The route has closely spaced bolts on alpine limestone, sometimes following major crack systems. Feel free to bring a rack (include some larger pieces) and skip the bolts, but the vast majority of us will by psyched on the closely spaced bolts. Bring helmets, one rope, and 9 quickdraws. Pitches 1+2, and 3+4 are easily linked.
James gets the majoriy of the credit on this one. All I did was help clean it and I lead two pitches. I originally wanted to scope out lines furthe up canyon (huge) or maybe a route to the right of frozen assests. May be good? The frozen assests wall may be better as a winter route. The north side of the canyon upstream of where we did our little climb has a major triangular wall that's worth scoping out...
Leave it to James to equip this. I saw this band last winter while climbing the ice and thought it'd be good for a rock climb. Of course I'm much too lazy to do such a thing. Thx James.
Couldn't have done it without Mike (alpinist turning route sanitizer!). Turned out better than both of us initially feared after a heavy approach slog...and then their was that Zephyr to contend with....this is a great place to get away from the heat, the crowds, seek solitude, day adventure climbing. Beware of the rattlers, but they are already everywhere in the Wastch, it seems.
(Frozen Assests on left of rib, cool looking winter line on right)
looking down the 10c pitch during a cleaning session
James gettin' ready to start climbing the first pitch
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Jun 10, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Two stars for the climbing, no stars for the approach/descent.
Rattlers are a real concern as we had a few close calls. Great work finding such a nice, moderate line amongst so much steep and featureless rock. With the addition of a few more routes in the area this would make a good crag, but that approach is never going to be good. Heavier footgear might make the approach/descent a bit more forgiving.
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