Type: Ice, 1200 ft (364 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jonathan & Brian Smoot, Jim Knight, Bruce Rogaar in 1983
Page Views: 4,465 total · 22/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Jan 3, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Located in the Mt. Nebo Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1 - A short, thin easy pitch leads to the main flow

P2 - Climb a steep, wide 70-80 degree pitch to a lower angle section above. Long pitch

P3 - Gully ice and snow lead to a belay below a short vertical pillar. Short pitch, you can combine P3 & P4 with a 60M rope

P4 - Ascend the pillar and gully ice for a pitch.

P5-8 Climb 3-4 pitches of moderate snow, ice and rock to a ledge below a vertical smear of ice. There is one hard section, about pitch 6...a thinly iced corner/chimney.

P9 - Climb this short, thin, vertical section (crux) to the top.

Unfortunately this enjoyable climb only forms up in periods of wet weather. If the last pitch isn't in, the climb is a WI 3-4.

Location Suggest change

This stepped ice flow descends from the North Facing buttress, about 1/2 mile up from the mouth of the canyon. Descend by rapping the route from trees, screws or V threads using 2 ropes.

Edit: The first 5 pitches now have bolted rappels.

Protection Suggest change

Screws, ice ax helpful

Photos

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