This area is composed of the long two (or more in spots) tiered quartzite cliff band that overlooks Ogden from the east. The canyon to its north is Ogden Canyon; the canyon to its south is Taylor Canyon. All the walls in this area face west, so they bask in the sun in the afternoon and evening. The mornings are shady. The alcove is one exception, it faces NW and sees more shade than the other walls. This has been a nice quiet place to climb in the past. The somewhat long steep approach, wasps and rattlesnakes are enough to deter many a weak willed climber. It is slowly becoming more often visited though. Most of the routes are sport. There are also a good amount of trad routes.
Getting There
To get to the northern walls (The Ramp Routes, Asbury Park, and The Basement): Go to 22nd street in Ogden and follow it east. The road ends at a parking lot (cars are commonly broken into here, usually via a closed window, so I would advise you not to leave valuables in your vehicle). The trail starts at the northeast corner of the parking lot. Follow a maze of mountain bike trails east to the Bonneville Shoreline trail. Follow this trail for a couple minutes as it bends to the south. A climbers trail will break off left straight up the hill. This leads to the base of a grassy ramp. Hike up this ramp to the south. You will soon arrive at The Ramp Routes and farther up you will find Asbury Park and The Basement.
To get to the southern walls (Taylor Corners Area to The Tangerine): Go to 27th street in Ogden, head east and park at the end of the street. From here follow trails and switchbacks east. These trails lead one to the upper boulder field. This field is located just south of Castle Rock(the huge boulder with white paint on its west face). Go to the north-east corner of the field via trails. Finally scramble up the talus to the base of the Utahnics Wall. To get on the second tier, climb one of the Utahnics Wall routes or climb the 4th class approach pitch just to the left of the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Ogden Quartzite (a.k.a. Schoolroom area):
The wasps here are insane. Count on half of your holds being taken.... I'm a NOOB, and a total sissy when it comes to aggressive type insects. This definetly added a different psychological aspect to climbing for me. Is this the best time to climb here, when the wasps are "slow"?
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