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South Summit Wall
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Taivallista 

Taivallista 

5.11c

   

FA: Jeff Lowe, Bruce Roghaar, 1970 Probable FFA: Noah Bigwwod and Kris Dockstader 2006
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 620 page views

Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 28, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: The blue line is Taivallista.


Description 

This is an excellent route that will be a classic once it cleans up a bit. It works fairly well to climb it in 3 pitches. The first pitch is probably easy 5.10. The roof on the second pitch is the crux while the upper roof on pitch three has been climbed by two variations, both around mid 5.10.


Location 

Located on the third buttress of the wall, it climbs a direct line just looker's right of the arete, through two, prominent roofs.


Protection 

A standard rack with a good selection of small cams and wires is all you need. Doubles in some sizes are handy for constructing the belays. There is a pretty good looking 1/4" bolt above the roof on the last pitch.



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By Ari Menitove
Jul 19, 2009

Fun route. Indeed, as it continues to clean up with traffic, it is just going to get better. It was a little tricky for us to find exactly where the route begins. It starts in a left facing corner with a clean crack. If you look up about 70 feet, you can see an unusually rectangular roof with a black spot near its center. Just above and right of this roof is a triangular tiered roof feature formed by two intersecting seams. Hope that helps.