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Lizard Head Wall

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Lizard Head Wall

  
Submitted By: Rob Hyldahl on May 10, 2006
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Part Time Crack 5.5
2. Blue Collar Crack 5.9+
3...


Description 

The south facing wall that lies between the Altered States Gully and The Fin. Although lacking in shear quantity of climbs, this wall does offer the climber a couple quality crack lines as well as an absolutely delightful slab climb. You will almost certainly be guaranteed solitude as well.


Getting There 

We followed the approch to Altered States Gully which included finding a cairn about 100 feet to the east of the church archives road. The cairn marks a good trail that puts you high in the gully. We then dropped down the gully until an westward traverse can be made to the next south-facing wall. This is it.



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Lizard head buttress without route lines drawn in

BETA PHOTO: Lizard head buttress without route lines drawn in

Boulder on the way to the Lizard Head Buttress

Boulder on the way to the Lizard Head Buttress

a goat greets, meets, and sends some good mojo prior to discovering the pain of a wide and gritty crack.

a goat greets, meets, and sends some good mojo pr...

Zigzag area without the lines. This area is about 100' west of Lizard Head main wall. Taken from halfway up the first pitch

BETA PHOTO: Zigzag area without the lines. This area is about ...

Zigzag area with lines.<br />The first pitch (only the upper part is visible in green) is common to the three routes.<br />Zigzag is the green line (the line is hidden by the roof @ the dotted section).<br />Wings Of Perception is the blue line, can be linked in 1 pitch from the belay.<br />Assumption Of Risk is the red line

BETA PHOTO: Zigzag area with lines.
The first pitch (only the ...


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By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 12, 2008

There is a better trail that follows the fin approach trail. 50-ish feet from the road cut left by a carn. Follow the trail through the woods. When you come to a big opening with a boulder sitting in the middle of it follow a faint trail, on the west side of the boulder, up the hill through an opening and up to the base of the climbs. 10 minute approach tops. As of right now there are 9 climbs that I know of in this area. 5.5 to 5.11b/c

By tenesmus
Jun 30, 2008

For those wanting to find a good place to tr some routes this is for you. You can scramble to the right of the butress and back to its top via a ramp system that offers amazing views of Altered States gully. From there head east to the anchor of Redneck slab to tr that and a short rap to the second pitch belay of Blue Collar crack with the faces to either side.

If you go west you can belay (behind a block) your partner as they do the easy 5th class down climb to the anchors of King Lizard to TR that.