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Lizard Head Wall
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Errant Edge 

5.10a

   

FA: Ruckman Bros.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 499 page views

Submitted By: Sir Camsalot on Mar 19, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Follows three bolts up the right side with some pr...


Description 

Follows three bolts up chicken heads and small crystals on the right side of the Lizard Head wall. Spicy.


Location 

Right of Squeeze My Lemon on the Lizard Head wall.


Protection 

Some pro available between the three bolts.



Add Photo Photos of Errant Edge
Durf on the Errant Edge<br /><br />Courtesy of Troy Anderson ProPoint Photography

Durf on the Errant Edge

Courtesy of Troy Anderson...


The Boogie before the Errant Edge.

The Boogie before the Errant Edge.


Add Comment Comments on Errant Edge
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By Sir Camsalot
Mar 19, 2008

I only Tr'd this but will be back soon for the lead. A fall getting to the second bolt would put you in the trees.

By tenesmus
Mar 19, 2008

no it won't. Its fine and the climbing right there is nicely featured. This actually starts around the corner in the crack for a move or two before pulling onto the lip. Starting directly under the bolts onto that slab ramp feels kinda like .11a. There is a small cam placement for the juggy (honestly!) runnout to the anchors.

By Sir Camsalot
Mar 19, 2008

ah...I thought it started at that right trending ramp just right of Squeeze My Lemon. Fun shizz either way.

By Arie Leeflang
From: North Korea
Mar 20, 2008

Wow, one of my favorite slabbin' craggin' leads in LCC. The short rightward trend above bolt 2 (or 3?) sports some wickedness and the final crack provides some welcome forgiveness. I've always started this down left of the bolts- but around the corner sounds like a prime idea. Used to be gear for anchors... probably still is...?

By Sir Camsalot
Mar 20, 2008

New (last year??) anchors have been placed up top.

By tenesmus
Mar 20, 2008

The tree belay for Squeeze My Lemon had grown into that block and loosened the last foot making the belay unsafe. So you can still belay with gear or you can continue on to the summit of the block and lower with a 70m rope.

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Apr 13, 2008

Really fun route. Gear is not critical between the bolts, however a larger cam and long sling is nice at the top near the chain. The climbing is delicate, yet highly featured compared to other slab routes in the canyon. Right on for whoever put the chain anchor at the top of these route!

By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
May 1, 2008

The Chain Anchor was added last fall (2007) by Tenesmus and Sunny-D. There are now several other routes in the area as well- All really fun "well" protected. pm me if you want information. I need to finish a couple of things up there before I post the routes

By S. Gileadi
From: Salt Lake City
May 13, 2008

Just did it again today and damn, I think it's great. Fun moves all the way. Those little patina knobs are just killer.